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Routes in Coffin Buttress

C.P.O.D. T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Closed Casket Variation S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Coffin Roof T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Coffin, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Exsqueeze Me S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
No Star Tuesday T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Rightside Variation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Strewn Masters of Hore S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Viewing, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Tom Hore
Page Views: 3,354 total, 34/month
Shared By: Tom Hore on Oct 24, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

The obvious steep right facing corner on the wall facing east up at the Coffin. If you have ever rapped down from Final Link to the Coffin you have rapped right down this corner.

Steep stemming and pulling. Start from a bolted anchor down and to the right of the corner. Follow a flake up into a horizontal crack and then pull up into the corner. At the top of corner exit out onto the left.

Location

Hike up to the Coffin and then scramble up the slab and brush to the corner. You will find a two bolt anchor for the belayer to clip into at a good stance down and to the right of the corner where the flake system starts. If you have a 70 meter rope you can rap off of the anchor at the top of the route all the way back down to the base of Coffin Crack.

Protection

Two bolt anchor at the base of the route down to the right. Five bolts up the corner with a two bolt rap anchor over the top.

Photos

Danie White
SLC, UT
Danie White   SLC, UT
Really fun moves to bolt #4, then things get desperate for a while. The shallowest of tip jams, a plethora of sharp foot crystals I couldn't use without better hands, and some other features that might be of use but I wasn't able to skillfully span or decode. Well bolted though! And despite the shutdown, I liked it. May 12, 2016
drewford
Wasatch Back, UT
drewford   Wasatch Back, UT
Splitting more hairs -- technically it's on the Crescent Crack Buttress. But a sunny steep challenge for sure. Good job Tom! Dec 3, 2009
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
What's up with recycling names here? Both of your new routes are 1 letter off... Oct 27, 2009
poofda. 5.10+ tops. rush lover. Oct 26, 2009
Strong work, Tom! I'm looking forward to getting throttled on it! S Oct 25, 2009