Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Steve Hong in 1980
Page Views: 7,174 total · 58/month
Shared By: bsmoot on Nov 19, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


Power fingerlocks and pinches take you to a sloper. Another pinch and finger crack take you up and over the lip. Follow a 5.7 crack to the top of the Coffin.

This was the first 5.12 in LCC


Above the Coffin crack, left side. Need to climb the first pitch of the Coffin to the roof. Traverse left to a bolted belay...get ready to power up.


Finger & hand sized cams


Ian Nielson
Ian Nielson  
Wholsome Folsom falshed this shit! So damn impressive, this thing is SEQUENTIAL! Tape or bleed. Jun 6, 2009
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
hmmm, and he just told me he was outa shape - yea right :)
Was up there last night and there is a pretty purple flower to greet you as you clear the roof - not saying I saw it up close though... Jun 23, 2009
Salt Lake City, UT
Jhernand   Salt Lake City, UT
I dont want to sound queer or nothin... but unicorns are kick ass man!

youtube.com/watch?v=2n2VVTU… Apr 16, 2010
Early coffin roof history. 1st assent of the roof was by Ellsworth and Mcquarry in 1964. Yes they used direct aid, everybody did in those days. a glorious age "when men were men and 5.8 was nailed". They finished the pitch above combining some aid with free climbing. Ellsworth used to take great slides with his instamatic. its a shame he disappeared with his slides, he had a great set from his assent of the "Marshall Route" on the "PAWN". Lenny Nelson S.L.C. 30 aug 2018 Aug 30, 2018