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Routes in Lisa Falls Buttress

Drag Queen T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flee Flicker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fleeting Glimpse S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Knocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lefty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) WI2-3
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lisa Falls Right T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Neurotica T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rodan S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Safety Blitz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweep Left S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Spot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Winky? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Calderone, Standifer
Page Views: 1,990 total, 11/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Aug 13, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

On the far right of the Lisa Falls area, is a wooded cove with a roof above it. This climbs a seam to a bolt on a slab, continues up a small steep section with another bolt above it. Then the fun stuff. Approach the roof from the right, locate the hidden bolt, clip it, and pull the roof. Finish up on an easy slab to the anchors by the tree. The 2nd pitch climbs up the face above.

Protection

2 bolts at the top of the first pitch, 3 draws for the climb (Pitch 1). Gear for pitch 2. I never climbed it.

Photos

Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
There are 3 variations to this route 5.10- to 5.10+.
Cams can be used between the bolts. Mar 17, 2014
Mark Lewis
Salt Lake City, Utah
Mark Lewis   Salt Lake City, Utah
How tall is the first pitch? It must be short with only 3 bolts to be well protected...25-30 feet? If it's longer, then it sounds runout. Is there places where gear is being plugged to compliment the 3 bolts on the first pitch? Apr 11, 2013
Alec LaLonde
  5.10b
Alec LaLonde  
  5.10b
Tyler -- Yes. It's a separate bolt line. May 6, 2011
Tyler King
Salt Lake, UT
  5.10d
Tyler King   Salt Lake, UT
  5.10d
The roof is a great 2-3 move sequence! The rest is decent slab climbing but the roof is basically a bolted boulder problem. Definitely worth doing just for that. Well protected. It is a 10d if you move left over the roof, otherwise a 10b (as seen in the book)

EDIT: I'm wondering if the left route is considered RODAN? Jul 21, 2008