Type: Sport, TR, 80 ft
FA: Calderone, Preziosi
Page Views: 2,820 total · 16/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details


This is the bolted line just left of the waterfall. Usually dry by april. Because of the water running on this climb 5-6 months out of the year, it is deceptively smooth down low. Start on the rightward angling ramp, clip the bolt and figure out the tricky sequence. No, don't hold onto the bolt. Once you have gotten past the first bolt, continue up past the step on the face to the steep section. Take a breather. Sidestep onto the upper face, and now commence to "sweep left". The line on this climb does not clamber up the ramp, as this turns into 5.5, but stays on the face with the bolts between your hands and feet, as you "sweep left". This consists of thin smears on micro-flakes, and fingernails of steel. What makes this part of the climb fun, is that each year, after the freeze/thaw cycles, the flakes have all changed. I went up there this year (2004) and a micro-flake that I remember from last year, that was integral was gone now. The upper face has gotten harder, but the crux is still down low.


2 bolts for the anchors, and 4 draws for the route.


Chris P)earson
Chris P)earson  
This is a good lead for beginners who are afraid to lead hard routs (like me) as the falls are generly more of a slide down the slick rock than an actual fall. This is a incredible route tha everyone should climb. If you top rope this route make sure you clip all the bolts above you to eliminate the swing. Jun 15, 2004
Mark P Thomas
Mark P Thomas   Draper
What's fun about the crux is when you get fed up with falling on it, you can attempt to sprint up the slab and past it. However, this is futile as your legs spin out like a cartoon character as you slowly slip back down.

I found two ways to get past the crux. One involves quads of steel, and the other is more elegant with better technique :-) Dec 24, 2010
Tapas   Utah
one way...

youtube.com/watch?v=GQu1AcQ… Feb 1, 2012
Gabriel Tallent
Salt Lake City, UT
Gabriel Tallent   Salt Lake City, UT
As of September 2013, it wasn't possible to clip the smashed hangers with quickdraws. However, it is just possible to thread slings through the hangers.

I am not a strong slab climber, but I think the route went at 5.10, not 5.8. Sep 1, 2013
Mountain Dreamer
Salt Lake City
Mountain Dreamer   Salt Lake City
Great video of the original route before the huge rockfall of 2013 buried the first 10 feet of the route. The first bolt will be repositioned higher in 2014. Mar 17, 2014
I've always thought that bolt was too close to a scenic waterfall. IMO it shouldn't be replaced ever. Mar 18, 2014
Tapas   Utah
Probably no need for a new bolt. It doesn't feel a bit runout to get up to the blunt arete from the "new" start. Someone did some chopping after the deluge last year and seems like part of the shared anchor was taken. The chopped bolts have been replaced, but the anchor will need to be fixed so the school kids and Splore groups can have a good time in the corner. Mar 18, 2014
The bolts have all been replaced and the anchor is rebuilt. The old crux seems to be gone as it is quite easy up and over the steep part but the "sweep left" was beyond me. Seemingly little to no flakes or edges at all. Jul 14, 2014
Chris Hfsda  
This is a lot of fun, but the route appears to have changed a lot - not too much to hold on to - definitely smeery and balancey (unless you have found something that I didn't). I tried to straddle the bolts, but I stayed just slightly more right than the line in the picture. I could be doing something wrong, but the crux, for me, are the three moves after the bulge. I would be interested in other new comments. Lastly, as of 9/14/17, the left top rope ring is loose. I tightened it as much as possible by hand. Fortunately, the climb to the first bolt is easy, but if you slip up high, it will definitely break something. Sep 14, 2017