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Routes in Lisa Falls Buttress

Drag Queen T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flee Flicker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fleeting Glimpse S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Knocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lefty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) WI2-3
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lisa Falls Right T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Neurotica T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rodan S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Safety Blitz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweep Left S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Spot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Winky? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,217 total, 13/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climbs the right bolted line on the face to the right of the waterfall. Clip your 1st bolt and make the crux move. The climbing eases a bit the rest of the way.

Protection

2 bolts at the top for the anchors. 4 draws are needed.

Photos

I'd rate the route PG-13 only because decking before the first bolt will send your leg in between a nice boulder and the wall and your body will keep going downhill...sending you straight to the hospital. May 28, 2012
Boissal
Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
Boissal   Small Lake, UT
  5.8+
2 move wonder slab on very slick rock. Probably hard 5.8, a tad harder than its neighbor to the left. The roof is also an 8ish move. May 12, 2009
chrisnsmith
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
chrisnsmith   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+
Rebecca, I agree. I thought the mantle at the third bolt was the hardest move. It sounds like I'm doing it the same way you are (really committing with my left foot). Aug 6, 2007
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8+ PG13
Am I the only one that thinks the mantle thing above the third bolt is at least kind of hard? Or am I doing it wrong? I use the big slopey chalk-covered holds about a foot and a half above the bolt, bringinng weight onto the left foot on the chickenhead just at the bolt... Aug 15, 2006
Jason Billings
Draper, UT
  5.8+
Jason Billings   Draper, UT
  5.8+
I disagree this route is not easier than the Flee Flicker the 5.7 to the left. I thought the start of this was very slick. I would recommend stick clipping the first draw. I found it difficult to get a secure stance from which to clip the first draw. Fall while clipping the first draw and you'll wind upside down on the boulder below. I agree that once you get out of the initial slick stuff climb does become much easier. Oct 10, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
This route is probably easier than the 5.7 just to its left because the start isn't quite as hard. Hard to rate these things though because they get so much easier past the first bolt. Jun 16, 2005