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Routes in Lisa Falls Buttress

Drag Queen T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flee Flicker S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fleeting Glimpse S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Knocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lefty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) WI2-3
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lisa Falls Right T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Neurotica T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rodan S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Safety Blitz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweep Left S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Spot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Winky? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Type: Trad, 140 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 5,506 total, 33/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climbs the right facing, right-trending crack/ramp until you can gain the face above. This should be just after a large block with a stripe in it. Continue up the face, pulling off an easy mantle. Then turn left to meet your anchors. Pitch 2 angles right around the overhangs, and reaches the base of alarge right-facing flake. Climb this flake til it's end.

Protection

2 bolts at the top of each pitch give you your anchors. Otherwise bring a large hex for the initial crack, some medium gear for the rest of the 1st pitch. The second pitch, requires some small to medium gear, and either well-placed large pieces for the flake or medium SLCD's. A couple of runners will also be needed.2 single rope rappels to get down.
CWood
SLC, UT
CWood   SLC, UT
I had the unexpected honor of meeting the first ascensionist, Peter Lev, today and giving him a TR belay on his route. For lack of a harness, he just tied into the end of the rope with a bowline on a coil. I probably should have asked him the FA year as I don't see that info here, but didn't think to. Nov 8, 2013
Tim Harper  
 
Jarem Frye and I did the 2nd pitch of Hard Nocks, which shares an anchor with this climb.

Be really careful when you throw your rope down from the 2nd anchor station, to throw it down to the right (facing away from the wall), and not to the left, as there is a large crevis in which I'd previously got my rope stuck. I'd already lowered my partner, so I had to solve it myself. I tied one end of the rope through both anchor chains, then lowered myself with a Grigri, and was able to fix the mess... I was not able to fix it from up top. Sep 26, 2012
Shad Williams
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5 PG13
Shad Williams   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5 PG13
Did this climb today as my second trad lead ever. Ran both pitches together with a 70m rope. Had to rap twice to reach the ground. Two bolted anchors. Lots of places to practice placing gear. Only intimidating move was the unprotected mantle that everybody else has mentioned. Not a very hard move, but I agree you would probably get injured if you blew it. Sep 17, 2012
Rebecca Airmet
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 PG13
Rebecca Airmet   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.6 PG13
I did an interesting variation on the first pitch. Rather than starting the friction down low, I went just a little ways up the bomber finger crack, did a shelfy sideways mantle (with good pro, maybe a 5.6/7 move), which put me almost exactly even with the lower anchors. I stuck a piece in above the mantle (very well protected for second), and traversed 15-20 feet to anchors with no pro. The traverse couldn't have been harder than 5.3, just a little heady. Aug 15, 2006
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.5
I'm not advocating adding a bolt at this point - mostly just giving a heads up that a fall on the crux would likely lead to a trip to the hospital. I can't really think of any other moderate routes in LCC with stars in the guidebook that would have such a serious consequence because of a fall in the crux. Something to keep in mind if you are a new leader. Jun 16, 2005
kBobby Hanson
Spokane, WA
  5.5
kBobby Hanson   Spokane, WA
  5.5
I think this is a great lead for beginners. Maybe not the best first lead, but good early lead nonetheless. I will say this with a certain degree of predictability: this route does not need a bolt. :)

Steve mentions that he liked Neurotica because it is a good full rope length. Well, this one starts and stops in the same places that N. does. You can do this as one pitch also. If you want to walk off, you can (but if you have a rope, the rappel is better). Continue up for about 15 to 20 feet into the trees. Head (climber's) right (east), bushwhacking your way down, eventually passing Drag Queen. Jun 16, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.5
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.5
This thing is pretty dangerous. Coming off the mantle, which would certainly be possible on a hot greasy day or if your head wasn't screwed on straight, would probably break a leg.

I would say this is a 5.5 climb for a solid 5.8 leader. Its a shame because one bolt, which would certainly have been easy and logical to hand drill on lead, would turn this into a fantastic beginner lead. As it is, the 5.5 fingercrack route to the right is far safer and a much better route anyway. Jun 16, 2005