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Routes in Lisa Falls Buttress

Drag Queen T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
End Run T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flee Flicker S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fleeting Glimpse S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hard Knocks T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Lefty 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lisa Falls (the ice climb) WI2-3
Lisa Falls Left T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Lisa Falls Right T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Neurotica T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Rodan S,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Safety Blitz T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sweep Left S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweet Spot T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Under the Skirt and Clip The Bush S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where's Winky? T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,478 total · 8/month
Shared By: Nathan Fisher on Mar 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This climbs the upper face to the right of the waterfalls. Start from the belay station at the ledge above Flee Flicker or Fleeting Glimpse. This then works around the roof that the anchors are on, and then pops over the small roof, at the base of the brown face with a bolt. Climb to the ledge and clip, make your touchy move and continue to the top.

Protection

2 bolts at the top of the climb (Shared with Lisa Fall Tight Pitch 2). 1 draw for the only bolt, and some medium gear. I believe a # .75 camalot worked wonderful just below the face to the bolt. 2 1-rope rappels

Photos

philfell
Olympic Valley, CA
  5.8
philfell   Olympic Valley, CA
  5.8
Good route to gain some height. Don't let the runout keep you away from doing this route, it isn't that bad. Personally I don't think the crux is 5.9, it feels much easier and is only one or two smear moves right at the bolt. May 20, 2005
Andrew Gram
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.9
Andrew Gram   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.9
Not 5.9+ and not really R rated either. The runouts are much easier, and the bolt protects the hard moves well. Cool pitch. Jun 16, 2005
Nathan Fisher
St George
 
Nathan Fisher   St George  
 
Did this again today, and would agree that 5.9+ seems a little steep. Aug 3, 2005
Tim Harper
  5.9- R
Tim Harper  
  5.9- R
The climbing is relatively easy, but yes, it's difficult to find gear placement. The one bolt on the way up is solid.

Because of the difficulty of placing anchors, a factor-2 fall is quite possible up to that point, and it's a good 50-60% up. Fortunately, the climbing is easy... but be careful out there kids. Sep 26, 2012
Matt Steubing
Salt Lake City, Utah
Matt Steubing   Salt Lake City, Utah
Here's a GoPro perspective of lead climbing this fun little route. The video starts with me following Neurotica and Hard Knocks starts at 3:47 in the video.

youtu.be/0BDsikQSjaA Nov 20, 2014
Chris Hfsda  
 
Didn't quite fee like a 5.9+, but I would agree with protection rating. A fall past the roof would drop you 20 ft below the belayer. I did, however, get a placement before the smooth brownish area; there is a finger hold flake about 10 feet over the roof. A think .4? BD X4 fit. Its not the best, but it's better than a potential 30ft fall past the belayer if you make it just short of the bolt. Also as a heads-up, as of 9/2/17 there is a bee hive in the rock around the roof - they don't respect your admiration for the great outdoors. Sep 2, 2017
zoso
  5.8+
zoso  
  5.8+
Sadly this has sprouted a 2nd bolt on the crux slab.
There is a great .3 or .4 cam placement just after bolt 2. Sep 13, 2018

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