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Routes in Southwest Face

Corner On Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greener Pastures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Huffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Light Headed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Huffer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
One Toke Over the Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: [[Kevin Heckathorne]]107874725
Page Views: 2,240 total, 15/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This route is located on the southwest face of the grouse slab , which is a five minute hike around to the left of the main face of Grouse Slab.

From the parking area heading towards the main climbing area of Grouse Slab, this wall is uphill and to the left, and you can see the routes of the Southwest Face on the approach before going around the Slab downhill and to the right.

Once you can see the 9 routes of the Southwest Face from the PCT (this applies for approaches from both sides), head uphill for about 3 minutes on a thin trail through the manzanita bushes.

Desire is the rightmost bolted climb on the SouthWest Face. Desire makes you either desire for more climbing like the earlier routes of the wall to the left, or simply for another bolt lower to the ground, since the crux is moving up to the first bolt!

Climbing is on tiny edges on a slab through the crux, and is finished after the second bolt where it eases to the top anchor.

Protection

3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I agree with Patrick in that this route seems a bit soft for 5.9. 9- seems fair. I like the route, but it is short, but with the convenient anchors at the top it is well worth doing. Nov 1, 2017
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.9
this climb needs another 20' for another star. It could be a good route, but the challenge ends in the first 5 feet. If Greener Pastures is 5.9, this thing can't be more than 5.8. split the difference with 5.9- Jul 13, 2013
bergbryce
California
 
bergbryce   California
 
Don't cheat on the start! A high step w/ the left foot off a good right foot on the corner is all you need.
You can get gear between the 2nd and 3rd bolt but the ground above the crack to the 3rd bolt is easy. Nov 5, 2009
Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.9
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.9
Great climb, lots of fun thin face moves. The first bolt is pretty high up there, and the crux is right off the ground.It is pretty far between the 2nd and 3rd bolt too, but there is a horizontal crack that can take a cam pretty nicely if you want the added comfort. It looks far from the last bolt to the anchors, but it is one move past the bolt then it eases off. Nov 21, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.9
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.9
Desire is a fun route which is pretty well protected although I did it on toprope this time. A few thin bouldering moves off the ground (with a good landing) gets you to the first bolt. Fun facing climbing continues up to the third bolt where it does ease up to the top. Nov 21, 2005
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Desire was my first real sport lead! So the name actually works. Like the above description says, the crux is below the first bolt. I actually cheated it on my first lead by stemming out to the nearby chimney that is clearly off route. It's been downhill ever since. Afterward, I TRd it and found the direct start is really not bad at all for slab. On a side note: the surrounding routes seem a little sandbagged. Enjoy! Sep 28, 2005