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Routes in Southwest Face

Corner On Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greener Pastures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Huffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Light Headed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Huffer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
One Toke Over the Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Hoffman and Gary Allan
Page Views: 1,382 total, 9/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This route is located on the southwest face of the grouse slab , which is a five minute hike around to the left of the main face of Grouse Slab.

From the parking area heading towards the main climbing area of Grouse Slab, this wall is uphill and to the left, and you can see the routes of the Southwest Face on the approach before going around the Slab downhill and to the right.

Once you can see the 9 routes of the Southwest Face from the PCT (this applies for approaches from both sides), head uphill for about 3 minutes on a thin trail through the manzanita bushes.

Half Hit is on the left side of the Southwest Face, and is the crack immediately left of the leftmost bolted arete called One Toke Arete (5.10+).

Half Hit is a crack of varying width, with a not so comfortable move about 8 feet off the ground.

Protection

small to medium, up to 2". Use a directional from small to large, and the top anchors of One Toke Arete for a toperope.

Photos

DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I climbed this today and found the crux to be actually placing gear on the first half; especially the second piece which I couldn't see very well due to the barn door nature of the stance which didn't allow me to get a look at the crack where I was trying to place the cam. Mostly an act of faith on that piece. Nov 1, 2017
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.9+
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.9+
For me, this crack is easier (and more fun) than Greener Pastures, which is much more sustained. This is more intense climbing for the first half of the climb, but then it eases off quite a bit. Takes bomber pro and bomber fingers. Definitely undeserving of the "R" rating as the pro placement is rather textbook. Apr 24, 2012
Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
 
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
 
Absolutely not an R.

This crack feels really polished for some reason and, in the sun on a moderately warm day, I almost thought I was going to grease off on the upper half (right before it eases off). Sep 21, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
  5.9+
caughtinside   Oakland CA
  5.9+
This is a great fingercrack that takes awesome gear, I have no idea why it was given an R rating here.

Admittedly, there is a low techy crux, but you can stuff this thing full of gear. I placed a small cam from the ground so I'd have a spotter, and sewed it up with a couple yellow and red aliens.

Great climb with cool tiny knobs on the face, only wish it was longer, the fun was over soon after it had begun. Apr 18, 2008