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Routes in Southwest Face

Corner On Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greener Pastures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Huffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Light Headed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Huffer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
One Toke Over the Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: John Hoffman (lead FA)
Page Views: 2,429 total, 16/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

This route is located on the southwest face of the grouse slab , which is a five minute hike around to the left of the main face of Grouse Slab.

From the parking area heading towards the main climbing area of Grouse Slab, this wall is uphill and to the left, and you can see the routes of the Southwest Face on the approach before going around the Slab downhill and to the right.

Once you can see the 9 routes of the Southwest Face from the PCT (this applies for approaches from both sides), head uphill for about 3 minutes on a thin trail through the manzanita bushes.

Greener Pastures starts from the same area as the rightmost bolted climb known as Desire (5.9), and is the crack just left of the chimney known as Huffer (5.6), which is just left of desire.

Climbing starts with a nice attack into a crack system that curves left just under a small bulge and then heads straight over the bulge where the crack heads vertically upwards. Continue up via fun jambs to the top anchor.

The pro is small on this short route, so only solid 5.9 climbers should attempt the route.

Protection

small pro to 1", 2 bolts for a top anchor.
Lucian G.
California
  5.9
Lucian G.   California
  5.9
Very cool route, too bad it isn't longer. Onsighted on lead with some fiddling, mostly because I wasted time trying to place bigger gear, which tipped out. The finger crack sections take good gear, so stick with small cams and sm-med nuts, and it'll protect well. Fun! Jun 27, 2015
Patrick Mulligan  
  5.9
If 10' longer this thing would definitely be pushing 10a territory. Its not that the climb is so difficult, but there are really only a couple of casual stances on the route. Placing gear definitely makes this a full value 5.9 and a proud onsite at the grade. I did this 10 years ago starting from the crack to the right as shown in the pictures. Today I lead it from the crack on the left which definitely feels more consistent with the rest of the roof and adds some difficulty. Jul 13, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.9+
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.9+
Great climb, very solid on-sight lead. The bolts have not been there in a long time. Led it in 93ish when the bolts existed and again recently. Felt much bolder on gear, of course. The pro is all there, but given the facts that the moves are pretty consistent at the grade and that some of the stances for placing pro were strenuous made the route feel a lot more like 10a to me. Two anchors on this one. A chain anchor just right of crack before the top out, and a higher two bolt anchor directly above the top out. Much easier to set a top-rope from the upper anchor using about 4' of slings and/or draws to extend it. May 18, 2013
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
 
Short and fun, no bolts along route as shown in guide. There is a 2 bolt anchor with chains. We did the route on TR by rappelling down from anchors on top of Light Headed (Left) and setting the TR on the Greener Pastures anchors, took some time, but well worth it. Oct 15, 2009
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Nice climb with a good handcrack. Just suffers from the same shortness as its neighbors. Apr 18, 2008
Brad Allender
Alameda, CA
  5.9
Brad Allender   Alameda, CA
  5.9
Fun climb with some great jam moves on it. The guide book Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe by Mike Carville shows bolts on this route. They are still there, but the hangers have been removed.The climb can be done safely as a trad lead. Nov 29, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.9+
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.9+
This route looks intimidating from the ground as it's much steeper than other climbs nearby. It is well protected though the whole way. I found the crux about 2/3rds up starting from where you have a great right-hand hand jam. You can place two bomber cams here and with thin feet you move up a couple moves to a great horizontal! A fun route and a good one to practice jam techniques. Nov 21, 2005