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Routes in Southwest Face

Corner On Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greener Pastures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Huffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Light Headed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Huffer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
One Toke Over the Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,433 total, 10/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Nov 19, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Shake starts about 10' left of Greener Pastures, the obvious crack climb on the steep face just left of Desire. Climb the crack off the ground to a stance with a small ceiling and horizontal crack on your right. The crux is moving up and right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Move a bit right of the bolt and then basically straight up on fun, thin, face and up and over the final bulge to the top.

I thought I was on a route shown in Mike Carville's guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe called "Light Headed" which is 5.8. In the middle of trying the crux, I was told it was 5.10a, which is much more reasonable.

A fun variation is to climb from the ground straight up on the face directly below the little ceiling and step up onto the face from there. It's about the same difficulty but height would be a factor as it's a long reach to holds above the ceiling. A fun toprope is starting just right of Shake in the vertical crack and climb straight up to the top. You do use some face holds from Shake in the middle section but try and stay right where you can. Maybe 10b or so.

Protection

Small to medium cams in the horizontal crack about 10' up protect the dicey move out onto the face to the first bolt. Two more bolts protect the upper face and bulge to the top. The anchors are two bolts.
Regarding the info on this section of Grouse Wall: The route information in the North Tahoe guidebook was provided directly by the guys that did the first ascents on most of these routes (Gary Allan, John Hoffman, Jim Zellers) starting in the early 70s. (Friends I have known for over 30 years) The info for this route was provided to me, and reviewed, by John Hoffman, who probably knows the route history of Donner Summit better than anyone. He corrected the previously published mistaken information on the location of "Light Headed". A lot of hearsay about routes at Donner, but most of the info in the North Tahoe guidebook was provided or reviewed by the original climbers that did the routes. (Which, yes, contradicts some previously published info) Feb 1, 2015
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Falcon guide calls this route Light Headed. The North Tahoe Guidebook has several errors in it. Though the Falcon guide also has several errors, as well. Oh my, what route is this? Why can't they just make a god damn fvcking guidebook of Donner Summit without any errors ;) Jan 31, 2015
The route described is not "Light Headed" but is the route between "Light Headed" and "Greener Pastures" (See the North Tahoe Guidebook) this route is "Shake". Aug 16, 2013
J. Hickok
  5.9
J. Hickok  
  5.9
I liked it. Not really 10a is it?? Seemed harder than the 5.8 the book rated it though. Aug 16, 2013
mattymck
Rocklin, Ca
  5.10c
mattymck   Rocklin, Ca
  5.10c
Fun route, solid lead. As stated, can get a solid piece in the horizontal prior to bolt one. Thin moves, with a fair enough amount of blobs and knobs to make it feel more balancy the cranky. .10c if topping out straight up from the last bolt, .10a if escaping to the juggy arete just left of the last bolt. May 18, 2013
Josh Cameron
Sacramento, California
  5.10a
Josh Cameron   Sacramento, California
  5.10a
I always place a .75 and a #1 C4 to start. The fun part is the arete higher up.

Edit: Climbed this again summer-ish 2012 and kept falling on lead at the crux before I clipped the bolt. Its a clean fall with good pro, though, I definitely checked my cams before I got up there and fell again and again and again. !Por Lastima! Aug 29, 2011
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.10a
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.10a
This is a very fun and challenging climb. I would give it *** if it would be twice the length! The first bolt is placed just out of reach requiring you to do a dicey, hard to reverse, step up onto the face. Luckily you are in balance and can make the clip to the first bolt ok off of thin holds. This makes the climb much harder head-wise. I might even think this move to be 10b or so but it's probably just my mind making it harder than it is. If you could clip the bolt from below, you wouldn't hesitate to do the move. The way it is you really have to commit. It's safe, mind you, as you have two bomber cams a couple feet below you but you would take a good little fall if you came off. There are all good climbs in this little section of cliff but this was a really fun one for me. Nov 22, 2005