All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass Road > Grouse Slab > Southwest Face
Avg: 2.4 from 20 votes
Routes in Southwest Face
|Corner On Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b|
|Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Greener Pastures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Half Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a|
|Huffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Light Headed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Little Huffer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a|
|One Toke Over the Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Shake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||1,433 total, 10/month|
|Shared By:||Paul Rezucha on Nov 19, 2005|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
DescriptionShake starts about 10' left of Greener Pastures, the obvious crack climb on the steep face just left of Desire. Climb the crack off the ground to a stance with a small ceiling and horizontal crack on your right. The crux is moving up and right onto the face to reach the first bolt. Move a bit right of the bolt and then basically straight up on fun, thin, face and up and over the final bulge to the top.
I thought I was on a route shown in Mike Carville's guide Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe called "Light Headed" which is 5.8. In the middle of trying the crux, I was told it was 5.10a, which is much more reasonable.
A fun variation is to climb from the ground straight up on the face directly below the little ceiling and step up onto the face from there. It's about the same difficulty but height would be a factor as it's a long reach to holds above the ceiling. A fun toprope is starting just right of Shake in the vertical crack and climb straight up to the top. You do use some face holds from Shake in the middle section but try and stay right where you can. Maybe 10b or so.