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Routes in Southwest Face

Corner On Gold S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Desire S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Greener Pastures T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Hit T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Huffer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Light Headed T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Huffer T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
One Toke Over the Line T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shake T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: John Hoffman and Gary Allan
Page Views: 299 total · 2/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Jul 9, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details


This route is located on the southwest face of the grouse slab , which is a five minute hike around to the left of the main face of Grouse Slab.

From the parking area heading towards the main climbing area of Grouse Slab, this wall is uphill and to the left, and you can see the routes of the Southwest Face on the approach before going around the Slab downhill and to the right.

Once you can see the 9 routes of the Southwest Face from the PCT (this applies for approaches from both sides), head uphill for about 3 minutes on a thin trail through the manzanita bushes.

One Toke arete is the leftmost bolt route on the Southwest face (the are 3, tough carville's book shows four), and is an excellent arete climb using decent hands through balancy moves. This climb would get 3 stars if it were twice as long, and it is the most fun route on the wall.


3 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


- No Photos -
The route is listed as 40' tall in the North Tahoe guidebook. May 31, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
One Toke Arete 5.10d was the original name and grade of this route page in 2005, but I updated the name, grade, length and FA from the North Tahoe Locals Guide, which was published since then. May 28, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Hey Sergey, your feedback on route heights will certainly help.

If you click the "Improve this Page" button, and enter a note with your own improved estimate, one of us will update it permanently, credit, and notify you in a short while.

Thanks. May 26, 2015
Sergey Shelukhin
Seattle, WA
Sergey Shelukhin   Seattle, WA
There's something weird either with me or with lengths reported for routes at Donner... I set this one up from the top (as far as I can tell - bolt line on the left side on the wall, next to the obvious arete, feels 10+) and there's simply no way it is 20' tall to the anchors. 20' tall is 3.5 my height, the wall is way taller than that. Is that an unlisted route? Was it changed? Mar 23, 2015
Oakland CA
caughtinside   Oakland CA
This thing was really cool! Tricky intro move into some fun arete action. Once again, just wish it was longer!

I toproped it so I could clean the anchor so we could escape the howling actic wind, so I can't remember how many bolts. At least three, maybe four.

oh yeah, zeke is weke! Apr 18, 2008