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All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > Highway 50 Corr… > Cosumnes River… > Buck's Bar Dome > Dinkum Gulley

Nightmare

5.12 YDS 7b+ French 27 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E6 6b British


 Avg: 2 from 4 votes

Routes in Dinkum Gulley

Amazing Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Batman Can't Fly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dinkum T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drastical T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamer TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse V0+ 4+
Finger Eater T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Knob Job TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dancing TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Magic Beans T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nightmare TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Palm Beach TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pod, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Robin's Attic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,506 total · 9/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Feb 25, 2005
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Steep slab with slopey hands and feet. All the beta i can really give is 'balance well'.

Nightmare is located just left of the obvious finger crack, Dinkum (5.9) on the south face of Buck's Bar Dome.

Protection

The only way to protect this nightmare is via toprope. From the top of Buck's Bar Dome, employ the right-most anchors.

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Photos

Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resolution version.<br> <br> (1) Planned Obsolescence (5.8),<br> (2) Blue Ballet (5.10+),<br> (3) Dreamer (5.10+),<br> (4) Nightmare (5.12),<br> (5) Toe Dancing (5.11),<br> (6) Dinkum (5.9),<br> (7) Lap Dancing (5.10d),<br> (8) Fox Trot (5.10d)
Upper Dinkum Gully (Left). Click for High Resol…
 8
Boots must be tight for this climb! Couldn't get mine tight enough!
Boots must be tight for this climb! Couldn't g…
 0
Brad starting the variation. Climb up to thin scooping ledge a few feet up and then up and right (right side of rope) to obvious holds leading up to top.
Brad starting the variation. Climb up to thin…
 0
Paul attempting Nightmare. Holds are TINY!
Paul attempting Nightmare. Holds are TINY!
 0

1 Comment

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Brad Pavik
Granite bay
 
Brad Pavik   Granite bay
 
Its a fun climb if you are in the area, might as well give it a shot since it's on top rope. Bring your good shoes for this one. There isn't much of anything in the way of holds, this wall makes micro crimps look huge. I sent this one on my second try at about 1am with a headlamp. I credit my sending this to the noises I was hearing in the bushes behind me that encouraged me to get up the wall. Oct 11, 2016

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