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Routes in Dinkum Gulley

Amazing Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Batman Can't Fly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dinkum T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drastical T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamer TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse V0+ 4+
Knob Job TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dancing TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Magic Beans T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nightmare TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Palm Beach TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pod, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Robin's Attic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 30 ft
FA: Don Garrett 1980s
Page Views: 1,380 total, 13/month
Shared By: bob branscomb on Feb 24, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Start along the left leaning crack at the base or (more interesting) some knobs to the right. Work onto a nice little ledge at the base of the upper right leaning finger crack. The crux is the start of this crack, proceeding up and around onto a low angle face. A very fun climb.

Location

Drastical is down hill from the Dinkum cliff, on the last rock past the big cave/chimney, facing west. Starts as a face with a little left leaning crack at the base above a sandy landing. Above is a right leaning finger crack.

Protection

A two bolt anchor on top for top-roping that you have to scramble down to. Can lead with some small-medium nuts or cams. Frequently free soloed (the first ascent was cleaned free solo).

Photos

Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Drastical doesn't look like much from the ground but it is actually a very fun climb with many good moves and fun gear placements! I placed a tiny brass nut in the initial thin crack that might have kept me off the ground getting the first really good piece in in the little vertical crack right of the main upper crack. You have good hand holds with smears for feet but you can comfortably place this piece. Once you stand at the base of the upper crack you can get several great placements before you gain the slab at top. A very fun little lead! Feb 6, 2011