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Routes in Dinkum Gulley

Amazing Chimney TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Batman Can't Fly T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dinkum T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Drastical T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Dreamer TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dreamer to Planned Obsolescence Traverse V0+ 4+
Knob Job TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lap Dancing TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Magic Beans T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Nightmare TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Palm Beach TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Planned Obsolescence T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Pod, The T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Robin's Attic T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,104 total, 19/month
Shared By: Justin Johnsen on Jan 7, 2013
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

The obvious flake at the left end of the Dinkum Wall. Start as far left as you like, and follow the big downward-pointing flake as it wanders right and up, using underclings supported by good feet. The step right to exit the flake may be the most technical move. Find your line to the anchor above.

From Wikipedia: "Planned obsolescence... in industrial design is a policy of planning or designing a product with a limited useful life..." When the flake goes, so will this route. Also, give a thump on the less obvious flake just below the anchors; erosion will have its way with these features before too long (geologically speaking).

Location

Leftmost route on the Dinkum Wall of Bucks Bar Dome.

Protection

TR from a pair of bolts above. We used a couple of 2" or 3" cams in the flake system as directionals to mitigate the consequence of a giant pendulum from the anchors.

The flake looks like it protects well for a trad leader, but when it runs out, there's little to protect you.

Photos

Whitney Christine
Nevada City, CA
 
Whitney Christine   Nevada City, CA
 
Only a little scary. The first move is sketchy, but after that, you just walk up the flake. There is a sweet pocket right at the top of the flake under the bushes to your left, and another pocket directly under some grasses to your right. After that, just enjoy the crimp rail until you get up to the top.

This route shares anchors with the neighboring 5.10+ Dreamer, so its fun to just hop over to that after warming up here. Mar 14, 2017