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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, Sport, 70 ft
FA: Steve Glotfelty
Page Views: 3,860 total · 21/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 27, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

One of the best lines I did at the crag. Fun and pleasant, mostly solid and gymnastic. I think I must have pulled 5 heel hooks around the corners.

This line is at the left side of the right-most feature of Snowshed Wall. This is in the shade in the attached photo, just left of the square face of that hold the obvious O.W. named 'Hairshirt.'

Climb up on solid rock on a crack (not too hard) to an engaging face- flag, stem, and hook your way up past multiple cruxes to reach the anchor. Very fun, and mostly good holds and good rests. Height may be a factor, as I found most of the critical holds just within my reach without much strain. Some one 5'6" or below will have to work harder.

Protection

A few small TCU's to 5 or 6 bolts, to a bolt and chain anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
It's 'disciples' of the new wave, not disciplines

Get the Tahoe Rock, guide, falcon press and check all the ratings and names etc...jeezze Feb 22, 2005
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
Hey AC, don't be an AC with comments like that! A typo doesn't merit it! And we all know guides have errors too so they are not definitive references... i.e.: see Palsy... Oct 20, 2006
426
  5.11b/c
426  
  5.11b/c
Reserve a couple of thin nuts for the top if you want to do the original pumper S.G. finish (staying on the left side). The thin nut at the top will keep you out of the tree.



Finishing on the right side is the most common variation, but is not the "full value". Mar 6, 2007
urs
 
urs  
 
Wow! one of the best mixed routes at Donner Summit! Another route not to miss! Its much funner if you stay to the left of the arete. Nov 23, 2008
Sam K
 
Sam K  
 
A much overlooked Snowshed climb, yet it remains one of my top favorites on the wall. Don't forget to heel hook! Aug 30, 2017

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