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Routes in North Face

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
On Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,338 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Nice Offwidth. Note the grade of 5.8+ os for the OW, and the climb could feel harder if you've never done this sort of climbing before. IT's a nice one that has reasonable rests and won't shred the aspiring OW climber, but at least short-sleaves may be advised anyway, as opposed to bare-back or in a tank top.

On the right hands side of Showshed wall, as seen in this picture, there is a tall sunny buttress split in two by a nice OW crack. The climb starts up past a few mountain Mapples to reach a slot that gets cleaner and more solid with progress. Fist-jamming gives way to arm bars, knee locks, and heel-toe technique, until the steep moves up top that are beat with pockets deep inside the crack and a good left-hand sidepull out on the left face.

The top-anchor or TR can be set with any of the various elements of a standard rack.

Protection

LARGE gear- take as many #3-4.5 camalots of some big bros as you want for pro on the top 1/2.

Photos

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426
 
426  
 
Really a classy OW for the Tahoe area... Mar 19, 2007
Willoughby
  5.8
Willoughby  
  5.8
I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary. Jul 13, 2008
Two #4 Camalots with a #5 Camalot between them will get you through the wide section with no more than 10 feet between the pieces.

This is a fun climb. I do not find that offwidth technique is all that necessary as there are many crimps for a your hands and feet to use along with the crack. May 12, 2009
Ehrick
San Diego, CA
  5.8
Ehrick   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Fun, easy offwidth climb. Good for practicing OW technique in a fairly forgiving environment. Jun 27, 2013
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
Knee locks! take 2 #4 and a #5 Jun 20, 2016
Eric Leonard
oakland california
 
Eric Leonard   oakland california
 
One of the coolest lines in the area, tricky yet solid jams, used 2, #4's & 1 #5 ( can be walked a ways) up top, such a cool position, and in the shade Mostly all day. Jul 23, 2018
Daniel James
NYCish, NY.
Daniel James   NYCish, NY.
got a bolted anchor these days fyi Aug 26, 2018

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