Type: Trad, TR, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,416 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Sep 26, 2003
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Access Issue: Donner/Truckee area Details

Description

Nice Offwidth. Note the grade of 5.8+ os for the OW, and the climb could feel harder if you've never done this sort of climbing before. IT's a nice one that has reasonable rests and won't shred the aspiring OW climber, but at least short-sleaves may be advised anyway, as opposed to bare-back or in a tank top.

On the right hands side of Showshed wall, as seen in this picture, there is a tall sunny buttress split in two by a nice OW crack. The climb starts up past a few mountain Mapples to reach a slot that gets cleaner and more solid with progress. Fist-jamming gives way to arm bars, knee locks, and heel-toe technique, until the steep moves up top that are beat with pockets deep inside the crack and a good left-hand sidepull out on the left face.

The top-anchor or TR can be set with any of the various elements of a standard rack.

Protection

LARGE gear- take as many #3-4.5 camalots of some big bros as you want for pro on the top 1/2.

Photos

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426
 
426  
 
Really a classy OW for the Tahoe area... Mar 19, 2007
Willoughby
  5.8
Willoughby  
  5.8
I don't bother with any heel-toe on this one; for me the whole upper half is perfect, hands-free, right-side-in knee locks (wear pants!!). About 2/3 of the way up, there is a spot for a #6 friend if you really want to place one. Otherwise, you can push along a #5 through most of the upper part; no Big Bros necessary. Jul 13, 2008
Two #4 Camalots with a #5 Camalot between them will get you through the wide section with no more than 10 feet between the pieces.

This is a fun climb. I do not find that offwidth technique is all that necessary as there are many crimps for a your hands and feet to use along with the crack. May 12, 2009
Ehrick
San Diego, CA
  5.8
Ehrick   San Diego, CA
  5.8
Fun, easy offwidth climb. Good for practicing OW technique in a fairly forgiving environment. Jun 27, 2013
Ed Henicle
Santa Rosa, CA
Ed Henicle   Santa Rosa, CA
Knee locks! take 2 #4 and a #5 Jun 20, 2016
Eric Leonard
oakland california
 
Eric Leonard   oakland california
 
One of the coolest lines in the area, tricky yet solid jams, used 2, #4's & 1 #5 ( can be walked a ways) up top, such a cool position, and in the shade Mostly all day. Jul 23, 2018
Daniel James
2018/19: Bristol, England
Daniel James   2018/19: Bristol, England
got a bolted anchor these days fyi Aug 26, 2018