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Routes in Snowshed Wall

Aerial S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Alvin's Route (TR) TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Bell Bottom Blues T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bottomless Topless T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Brain Child S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Break Out T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bypass T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Cannibals S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Composure T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Conform or Be Cast Out S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Crack of the Eighties T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Death Tongue S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Devaluation T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Devaluation Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Disciples Of the New Wave T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Drop Out Left T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Drop Out Right T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Farewell to Arms T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hair Lip T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hair Shirt T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hair and Now S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jam Session T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Karl's Gym T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Little Feat S,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Manic Depression T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Missing Mind S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Molar Concentration T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mole's Corner T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey Paws T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Night Country T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Nova Express T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
On The Edge T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Palsy T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Pan Galactic Gargle Blaster T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Panic in Detroit T,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Pea Soup T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peter Principle T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pump Lust S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Rage Reduction T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rapid Transit T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Reductio ad absurdum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rick and Eric's T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Sanitation Crack T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Side Effect T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Split Pea T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Telegraph Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thing, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Two Fingers Gold T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Welcome to My Nightmare T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Eric Pearlman / John Hoffman, 1980's
Page Views: 218 total, 2/month
Shared By: Paul Rezucha on Oct 18, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Notes Details

Description

Mike Carville's Rock Climbing Lake Tahoe guide mistakenly shows this route to be Palsy (5.9). Palsy climbs the dihedral around the corner to the right and has a direct start (10a/b) that starts 5' or so right of this route and shares a few holds.

This route is a wonderful face climb that follows a beautiful narrow band of rock from the ground all the way to the anchors. The climbing is steep, continuous, and thin. The bolts are a bit far apart and poorly placed as they are mostly out of reach from any decent stand. Holds are scarce as it is and the clipping of a couple bolts require very dicey stances. The crux is getting past the 4th bolt to the 5th and to the anchors although the climb is pretty much all of a crux.

Location

This route is on the way right side of the North Face of Snowshed. It is the most obvious climb characterized as a narrow band of vertical face with an off-width crack just left of it (Hair Shirt .8). An easy walk off down and left as you face the road.

Protection

This route is protected by 6 bolts with a two bolt anchor just before topping out. Some small cams help protect moves reaching the second bolt.

Photos

"On The Edge" is located about a dozen+ feet to the left of this route. It goes right up the very left edge of the formation and the very top is visible in the upper left skyline in the photo. "Hair and Now" is the drawn route line to the right of the obvious chimney in the photo. (Chimney route is the 5.8 route "Hair Shirt") There are two other routes between "On The Edge"and "Hair Shirt" as well. Nov 17, 2015
Pavel Burov
Russia
 
Pavel Burov   Russia
 
I would give at least 3 stars rating if the route was bolted at least OK. There are at least 3 hands free stances with no clipping option.

It is kind of 1 star lead and 3 stars top rope. Anyway, the climb is good by itself - a bit of route finding, a bit of sequence reading, a bit of techy moves, quality rock. Aug 5, 2014
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I've seen Disciples of the New Wave rated 5.11b/c. If that holds, this route is significantly harder than Disciples. I would agree with 11d/12a as is suggested. Sustained, thin, great moves, and something I will probably never lead as it would really be On Edge as Urs reports the true name.

It seems to me a top rope anchor alone (shared with Palsy) would probably have sufficed since I have never seen anybody lead it. Maybe I just miss seeing all those numerous ascents. Idle conjecture, nothing personal. Jun 2, 2012
urs
urs  
Um not to be mean or anything but this route is actually called On Edge 5.11c by eric pearlmen, i talkd to him about it shortly after i did it. And he said that carivals guidbook mixed the route name up. Jul 8, 2009
Hardest 5.9 I ever warmed up on. May 12, 2009
426
  5.11d
426  
  5.11d
Prolly mid 90s. I think it was a TR for eons... Apr 20, 2008
Name of this route is "HAIR AND NOW" .11c

FA Eric Pearlman / John Hoffman

late 1980s? Dec 20, 2007
426
  5.11d
426  
  5.11d
Paul, you are right.

This is a thin hard route. I think perhaps Victor Marcus put it up. I give it an 11d/12a grade for the cranker moves near the anchors. DO NOT confuse it with Palsy. I watched someone sandbag themselves horrendously and almost take a very bad fall using the guidebook beta. Mar 6, 2007
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
 
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
 
Although I didn't make this climb to the top I felt that it is very worth posting so that others wouldn't get sandbagged as I did from reading the guidebook. If someone knows the name, grade, and any other information, please either email me or post it here and I will correct my posting. Although I felt getting stood at the first bolt to be very difficult, the climbing is very sustained all the way to the 4th bolt which is where my fingers and arms gave out. I used the left edge which I assume is in bounds otherwise it would be VERY hard. The right edge to too far away if you want to follow the bolts. Where do others believe the crux to be? Also, double ropes would be very useful here as the bolts are hard to clip and are quite far apart!
Thanks! Oct 18, 2006