All Locations > California > Lake Tahoe > I-80 Corridor > Donner/Truckee > Donner Pass > Snowshed Wall > North Face
Avg: 2.6 from 18 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,453 total · 9/month|
|Shared By:||Brian Quiter on Sep 10, 2004|
|Admins:||Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Access Notes Details
CRAGS and the Access Fund are beginning new projects to help improve access to Donner Summit. You can communicate access issues directly at CRAGS’ Donner Summit page norcalcrags.org/crags/donner/. In 2014, the Truckee Donner Land Trust and the Access Fund jointly launched the Save Donner Climbing campaign. The following year, it purchased formerly private land for public conservation and access, which includes the Black Wall and other nearby cliffs.
DescriptionWell I hope this doesn't come as a surprise, but Mike Carville's book is wrong on this one.
The bolted route depicted in his book is NOT a 5.9 with a 10a/b start. Its an 11c. The direct start to Palsy ascends the off-fingers crack that starts 10 feet of the deck. The face climbing up to the crack is challenging and unprotected, the crack is good, then you mantle onto a ledge and ascend the 5.9 dihedral crack that can't be seen from the deck. You can easily avoid the 5.10 stuff by walking around to the right onto the ledge that the dihedral starts from, but the .10 part is a lot more intruiging than the .9 part.