Avg: 1.7 from 7 votes
Routes in Moldy Buttress
|Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R|
|Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c|
|Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c|
|Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13|
|Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a|
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft|
|FA:||First lead by Jim Erickson|
|Page Views:||531 total, 3/month|
|Shared By:||Jim McGuire on Oct 31, 2003|
|Admins:||Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionThe face to the right of CUL-DE-SAC is lower angled,(Devils Lake version of slab climbing), and has a prominent left facing corner leading to a shallow roof. NINE-MINUS offers the easiest of several interesting excursions up this face.
Climb up the corner but move right before you reach the overhang. Angle back left above the overhang to easy ground above. Most climbers don't bother with the upper grungy portion of the climb, Moldy Buttress is aptly named after all.
Having mastered the basic line, it is time to crank it up a notch to TEN-MINUS, 5.10a. Start on the face right of the corner and go up and then left above the overhang as in NINE-MINUS. For a still greater challenge go straight up the face right of the the corner and don't curve left above the overhang, ELEVEN-MINUS, 5.10d.
I have always thought the names were a more accurate reflection of the ratings, but as the 1970 guide says, "This climb is such an easy F9 that it is F8",F8B in fact.