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Routes in Moldy Buttress

Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: First lead by Jim Erickson
Page Views: 531 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jim McGuire on Oct 31, 2003
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

The face to the right of CUL-DE-SAC is lower angled,(Devils Lake version of slab climbing), and has a prominent left facing corner leading to a shallow roof. NINE-MINUS offers the easiest of several interesting excursions up this face.

Climb up the corner but move right before you reach the overhang. Angle back left above the overhang to easy ground above. Most climbers don't bother with the upper grungy portion of the climb, Moldy Buttress is aptly named after all.

Having mastered the basic line, it is time to crank it up a notch to TEN-MINUS, 5.10a. Start on the face right of the corner and go up and then left above the overhang as in NINE-MINUS. For a still greater challenge go straight up the face right of the the corner and don't curve left above the overhang, ELEVEN-MINUS, 5.10d.

I have always thought the names were a more accurate reflection of the ratings, but as the 1970 guide says, "This climb is such an easy F9 that it is F8",F8B in fact.

Protection

Small gear but placements don't exactly abound on this line.

Photos

Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
these are excellantclimbs,also worth doing is Hales Corner 5.10d. Mar 26, 2005
Jim McGuire  
 
The climber in the above photo is on Fungus. Nine-Minus goes up the extreme left portion of the the picture. Jan 5, 2004
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
All three sound like great climbs! Thanks for your contributions Jim! Dec 14, 2003