All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 10: Moldy Buttress

Nine-Minus

Name: Nine-Minus
Rating: 1.6

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in 10: Moldy Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
	Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eleven-Minus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Type:	Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS:	43.41374, -89.7139
FA:	First lead by Jim Erickson
Page Views:	1,236 total · 5/month
Shared By:	Jim McGuire on Oct 31, 2003
Admins:	Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

The face to the right of CUL-DE-SAC is lower angled,(Devils Lake version of slab climbing), and has a prominent left facing corner leading to a shallow roof. NINE-MINUS offers the easiest of several interesting excursions up this face.

Climb up the corner but move right before you reach the overhang. Angle back left above the overhang to easy ground above. Most climbers don't bother with the upper grungy portion of the climb, Moldy Buttress is aptly named after all.

Having mastered the basic line, it is time to crank it up a notch to TEN-MINUS, 5.10a. Start on the face right of the corner and go up and then left above the overhang as in NINE-MINUS. For a still greater challenge go straight up the face right of the the corner and don't curve left above the overhang, ELEVEN-MINUS, 5.10d.

I have always thought the names were a more accurate reflection of the ratings, but as the 1970 guide says, "This climb is such an easy F9 that it is F8",F8B in fact.