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Routes in Moldy Buttress

Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad
FA: First Lead: Jim Erickson
Page Views: 148 total, 1/month
Shared By: Anonymous on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Locate the 3 foot roof on moldy buttress, Cul-de-Sac follows the inside corner to the roof exiting to the right and up. The Crux is definitely at the roof, hike your feet up and commit to the move!

Protection

Small wires up to the roof and mid sized nuts/hexes after the roof
Commit to the move is right! I tried easing up to it and would lose balance. Just go for it! Jul 21, 2014
Tradiban
  5.8 R
Tradiban  
  5.8 R
"R" rated I would say with committing mantle move with so-so small gear at your feet. A fall would be a slammer in to the dihedral. May 6, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.8 PG13
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.8 PG13
If you are tall enough, you can do the crux move statically ... if only I could remember how! Paste your feet high and stem.

Gear at the crux is solid, its just somewhere around your shins or ankles. The gear on the upper wall is more tenuous - scramble a couple of moves up the gully, the go back out left. For *that* this route deserves a PG/R rating. Apr 13, 2009
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.8
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.8
This was my first 5.8 at the Park back in 87, and it's still my favorite. Aug 18, 2007
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
Good route, scary lead. Despite the casual appearance of the corner, the holds and the pro do not offer themselves up easily. Sloping quartzite, shitty pro--the makings of a memorable lead experience. Though, don't you feel like a total hero when you latch that jug above the roof, with the rope hanging in a lazy, unbroken arc down to the fixed nut below the crux? Actually, it kind of makes you forget all the grovelling, shaking, and oaths to never do this again. On second thought: great route, awesome lead. Mar 21, 2003
Loved the route good rating. Mar 18, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
Instead of wimping out when you get to the ledge after the roof by heading up and right along the path of least resistance, try climbing the face directly adjacent to the corner (to your left). It's very slopey, but there's a sequence that makes it about 5.8+. I won't give it away, you'll have to figure it out. It involves a semi-dyno. Oct 12, 2002