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Routes in Moldy Buttress

Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 45 ft
FA: Old School
Page Views: 150 total · 2/month
Shared By: Doug Hemken on May 5, 2011
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

A classic maneuver: climb up to the roof, then traverse on holds below the roof until you have "escaped" to the right.

There are three possible starts: back in the dihedral that heads straight up to the large roof, up the little pillar just to the right of the dihedral, or up the wide crack that begins near "Tiba". The prettiest climbing and surprisingly the best protection is found on the pillar (several cracks are hidden from view).

Stop just below the top for the best anchor.

After a rain the upper part of this climb may have a film of fine dirt, because the overlook at the top is devoid of vegetation. The key holds are easily brushed clean as you go.

Location

Left of "Tibia" and "Cul-de-sac".

Protection

Gear to 2 inches. Something wide if you choose the right-hand start.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
I think the quality of the pro depends on how closely you hug the roof: the conundrum is better pro and (slightly) harder moves, or easier moves and little good pro.

I would characterize this as an intermediate leading problem at a low gymnastic level. Not a great first lead, but a good 5.4 to lead. Aug 25, 2015
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.4
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.4
Horticulture is kind of heinous up high - suspect rock and questionable pro combine to make it interesting. Definitely not a lead for the 5.4 leader... Aug 23, 2015