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Routes in Moldy Buttress

Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland, 1967
Page Views: 230 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2002
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

Tibia Crack is to the left of Cul-De-Sac (the inside corner below the coffee table-sized roof). Start out by climbing up the very shallow inside corner past some clumps of long grass. Once you get to the crack, use nice jams and some rightward laybacking to get up to a hanging v-shaped chimney (crux). Struggle for a while figuring out how to get through this akward chimney. Pass through the chimney and cruise to the top.

Protection

Standard Rack, some runners to prevent rope drag.
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
 
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
 
There is one decent piece of gear in the chimney (see the photos of Carey leading it), but its pretty specific: a 1 or 1.5 inch cam or tricam. Jun 4, 2010
Tradiban
  5.8+ PG13
Tradiban  
  5.8+ PG13
"PG-13" rated unless I missed a good placement higher up in the chimney. Jun 3, 2010
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.8
I climbed this last week but I climbed it with a slight variation. At the chimney I went right around the roof and basically mantled over the roof and continued straight up. I can't compare the original route to this, as I didn't do it, but I'd have to say going right at the chimney is comparable to the original route. Thoughts? Nov 18, 2009
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
  5.8+
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
  5.8+
An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead. Nov 18, 2009
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
 
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
 
Sweet pictures Mike! Thanks for contributing. Aug 25, 2004
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead : Peter Cleveland,1967 Nov 6, 2002