Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: First Lead: Pete Cleveland, 1967
Page Views: 326 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tom Anderson-Brown on Oct 11, 2002
Admins: Burton Lindquist, Doug Hemken, chris tregge, James Schroeder

You & This Route

21 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:

     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:

-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick


Tibia Crack is to the left of Cul-De-Sac (the inside corner below the coffee table-sized roof). Start out by climbing up the very shallow inside corner past some clumps of long grass. Once you get to the crack, use nice jams and some rightward laybacking to get up to a hanging v-shaped chimney (crux). Struggle for a while figuring out how to get through this akward chimney. Pass through the chimney and cruise to the top.


Standard Rack, some runners to prevent rope drag.


Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
first lead : Peter Cleveland,1967 Nov 6, 2002
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
Sweet pictures Mike! Thanks for contributing. Aug 25, 2004
Dmitriy Litvak
Pacifica, CA
Dmitriy Litvak   Pacifica, CA
An honest 5.8+
Could climb like 5.9 on first lead. Nov 18, 2009
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
I climbed this last week but I climbed it with a slight variation. At the chimney I went right around the roof and basically mantled over the roof and continued straight up. I can't compare the original route to this, as I didn't do it, but I'd have to say going right at the chimney is comparable to the original route. Thoughts? Nov 18, 2009
  5.8+ PG13
  5.8+ PG13
"PG-13" rated unless I missed a good placement higher up in the chimney. Jun 3, 2010
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
There is one decent piece of gear in the chimney (see the photos of Carey leading it), but its pretty specific: a 1 or 1.5 inch cam or tricam. Jun 4, 2010