All Locations > Wisconsin > Baraboo Range > Devil's Lake > E Bluff 04 - E… > 10: Moldy Buttress

Cul de Sac Exit

Name: Cul de Sac Exit
Rating: 3.6

5.11c/d YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 25 ZA E4 6a British R

Routes in 10: Moldy Buttress

L › R R › L A › Z

	Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
	Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Eleven-Minus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
	Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
	Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
	Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a

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Type:	Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
GPS:	43.41374, -89.7139
FA:	Dave Groth
Page Views:	1,365 total · 6/month
Shared By:	JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006
Admins:	Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

If you’re on the hunt for hard, scary classics at Devils Lake, well hold up, cause you just found one!! Cul de Sac Exit is a serious lead with the crux of the route being the R rated section. That said, this beautiful and technical route will leave you wishing there was just more of it. It’s a proud lead if you can pull it off.

Start up Cul de Sac as normal. At the roof, keep climbing left, up and over to an eight inch wide finger slot. Work up the arete with thin side pulls, slopers, and underclings. Follow the arete to the top.

Protection

I believe Groth and Bechler used some hand placed pins on their ascents. Seth Dyer and I didn't use any of that, though we probably should have. The most important piece for me is a small (#2?) wire right dab in the middle of the crux. It is hard to fish in, but as strong as the cable once you get it. Still, in my world this thing comes with a pretty heavy R rating which could easily turn to an X mid flight...