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Routes in Moldy Buttress

Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Dave Groth
Page Views: 258 total, 2/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

If you are on the hunt for hard, scary classics at Devils Lake, well hold up cause you just found one!! Cul de Sac Exit is a serious lead with the crux of the route being the R rated section... That said, this beautiful and technical route will leave you wishing there was just more of it.

Start up Cul de Sac as normal. At the roof, keep climbing left, up and over to an eight inch wide finger slot. Work up the arete with thin sidepulls, slopers, and underclings. Follow arete to the top.

Protection

I believe Groth and Bechlar used some hand placed pins on their ascents. Seth Dyer and I didn't use any of that, but the most important piece for me is a small (#2?) wire right dab in the middle of the crux. It is hard to fish in, but as strong as the cable once you get it. Still, in my world this thing comes with a pretty heavy R rating which could easily turn to an X mid flight...

Photos

Remo
Madison, WI
  5.11c/d
Remo   Madison, WI
  5.11c/d
This is a classic DL hard route! Must do if you're climbing on this buttress. Oct 20, 2016
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Hey Nick, placing the #2 wire for me was the crux move. I had to get this marginal stance, and then fish the thing in sort of back handed, and it would only go in with the right micro flick of the wrist. Specialty gear for sure, but this little wire was the reason I felt I could do the thing without dying. Seth and I both found/used this placement. Nov 8, 2010
Tradiban
  5.11c R
Tradiban  
  5.11c R
Yes, heavy "R" rating indeed. From the looks of it you would think you can get a nice piece to protect the mantle over the roof, wrong. Blowing the mantle comes with a very possible decking. Good thing that isn't the crux.
When standing on the ledge of the roof I buried a #1 Ballnut in the right hand seam and two sketchy micro cams in the left seam. I didn't see this nut placement that's talked about.
A reachy move is the crux and then it follows the arete, again runout unless you have a ballnut or two left for a small seam. It's not over until you get to a wider seam with a good cam placement.
Long live trad climbing. Sep 1, 2009
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
A standout beautiful line. Sep 25, 2006
JJ Schlick
Flagstaff, AZ
 
JJ Schlick   Flagstaff, AZ  
 
Seth Dyer and I both lead Cul-de-Sac exit back in 97. I remember a grey Metolious tricam with only two lobes fully cammed at the roof. Two purple metolious stuffed into the flaring finger slot just above, and I think a #2 BD wire in the middle of the crux. That was spooky fishing that thing in back hand with the left hand on the sidepull/ undercling. The wire is as bomber as the cable its on. I don't think there was much else for gear at the top. I don't think my lead was a pretty sight to watch, I remember looking down, trying not to puke, and seeing Paul and Sandy walking away with concerned looks upon there faces... Oh well, I have always been crazy. Peace- Aug 15, 2006
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
rich i remember the story about scott smith and the biner.nice lead on the direct,is it run out above roof? Apr 2, 2005
Yes Steve I did lead Cul de sac exit .Dave G. did the first lead and I did the first clean lead.A hand placed long dong works great at the start of the crux and there is a assortment of other gear that when all tied together should hold a fall.bring hbs,rps and tcus. I also remember trying to lead the regular route when I was 17 (27) years. I fell twice at the crux and almost hit the ground. I was wondering what to do after pulling the rope and Scott stewart came along climbed up took out my last piece,which was the only one left. He then came down gave me the nut and took the beener and walked away without a word. Gee thanks Scott...... Apr 1, 2005
Steve Sangdahl
eldo sprngs,co
Steve Sangdahl   eldo sprngs,co
what about cul-de-sac exit out the roofs, rich didnt you lead this? Mar 24, 2005