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Cul de Sac Exit
5.11+ YDS 7a French 24 Ewbanks VIII UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British R
Avg: 3.7 from 12
votes
Routes in 10: Moldy Buttress
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Cul de Sac Exit T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R |
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Cul-de-Sac T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Eleven-Minus TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fibula Cracks TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fungus TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Hales Corner TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Horticulture T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Lichen T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Lichen Planus TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Mother of Pearl T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nine-Minus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Roofus T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Tibia Crack T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Verticulture T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Dave Groth |
| Page Views: | 1,113 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | JJ Schlick on Sep 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Ian Cotter-Brown, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, chris tregge, Ben Strobel, Kyle Harding |
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Description
If you are on the hunt for hard, scary classics at Devils Lake, well hold up cause you just found one!! Cul de Sac Exit is a serious lead with the crux of the route being the R rated section... That said, this beautiful and technical route will leave you wishing there was just more of it.
Start up Cul de Sac as normal. At the roof, keep climbing left, up and over to an eight inch wide finger slot. Work up the arete with thin sidepulls, slopers, and underclings. Follow arete to the top.
Start up Cul de Sac as normal. At the roof, keep climbing left, up and over to an eight inch wide finger slot. Work up the arete with thin sidepulls, slopers, and underclings. Follow arete to the top.
Protection
I believe Groth and Bechler used some hand placed pins on their ascents. Seth Dyer and I didn't use any of that, though we probably should have. The most important piece for me is a small (#2?) wire right dab in the middle of the crux. It is hard to fish in, but as strong as the cable once you get it. Still, in my world this thing comes with a pretty heavy R rating which could easily turn to an X mid flight...
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