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Routes in Misery Rocks

False Perspective T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Man's Misery TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In the Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life of Jam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pillow Right Side, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillow's Edge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pillow, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoke Hole T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tree Slot Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Wailing Wall TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weeping Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
unnamed route to left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 328 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Is the false perspective from the climber on the route or from those who say it looks too easy? Start in an inside corner on the center of the face to the left of the Pillow. Climb a crack through a small sloping roof to the top.

This climb is a bit harder than it looks, but takes gear very well for a lead.

Protection

Standard rack
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman
Portland, OR
  5.8
Joe "Big Boi" Osterman   Portland, OR
  5.8
Led this today, maybe the rock was bit wet, maybe I was missing something, or maybe I was tired as it was the end of the day but I definitely feel like this climb was harder than your average 5.7. I give it a 5.8, at least. Oct 27, 2014
5.8 for sure. great climb Sep 15, 2014
5.7 seems right, but the Climber's Guide to Devil's Lake lists it at 5.8. Jun 6, 2014
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.7+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.7+
This is not a 5.6. If you don't use the crack to jam and you use the comfortable ledges to the left of the route (the right side of Weeping Wall) then it might be a 5.6. This crack has great jams through the crux and if you stick to these jams makes it harder- like 5.7+. Good lead. Good gear...but not a 5.6. Apr 11, 2010
ChristopherThies
Walworth County, WI
ChristopherThies   Walworth County, WI
CAUTION: The large block at the very top of 'False Perspective' (the block which touches what remains of the dead pine with its southeast corner) is unstable. If you stand behind with your palms upon the top of its west end and weight it (as if to mantle upon it), it teeters (as in the pitch of an airplane). I don't know if it has always been like this, or if this is a more recent function of the deterioration of the dead pine touching its southeast corner, but anyway thought I'd mention it. I didn't have my camera with me today, but the living pine tree in the above photos (dated '02 & '04) at the top of this climb is now a dead trunk which ends just above the top of the top block mentioned. Nov 8, 2009
BryanR
Madison, WI
BryanR   Madison, WI
took my first lead fall on this yesterday. not far, but enough that it was a good test of my gear placement.... May 30, 2009
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
 
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
 
This was my 1st lead at the Lake (1988). I wasn't aware that the loose block is gone. So it's a 5.7 now? Aug 11, 2007
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.7
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.7
Two things:

First, No way this thing is PG13. I led it this weekend and it sucked gear like it was going out of style.

Second, I've come to the conclusion that the block "falling" out of the crux has made the route harder. It's 5.7 now for sure. May 28, 2007
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
  5.6 PG13
False Perspective is a nice route to warm up on before trying the two excellent face routes on either side of it. Great spot to climb at. Apr 24, 2006
Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
  5.7
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
  5.7
Well protected, and the crux is short.

Very popular with the guide services and other classes. Aug 1, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
So, the block is gone. I can't tell you how many times I have soloed the route and yarded on the block like an idiot.

As for the new grade, please refer to my previous post. Apr 12, 2005
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
If the block pulls out, I propose a grade of 5.7c/d. In fact, where's my crowbar? I know it's around here somehere..... May 15, 2002
If that rock finally pulls-out, I would guess the route would go up at least a full grade.....It is such a handle! May 15, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
False Perspective is a good lead as long as that rock wedged in the crack doesn't decide to finally come out. It moves a little, but it feels soooo good. May 14, 2002
Though trickier than the rating implies (hence the name), I believe this is a great route for the beginning leader..... it protects very well from good stances, and falling off the crux above the roof is relatively safe... provided of course you protect it well.... May 14, 2002