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Routes in Misery Rocks

False Perspective T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Man's Misery TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In the Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life of Jam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pillow Right Side, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillow's Edge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pillow, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoke Hole T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tree Slot Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Wailing Wall TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weeping Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
unnamed route to left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
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Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 191 total · 1/month
Shared By: Jay Knower on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: Burt Lindquist, Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description [Edit]

Weeping Wall is the face on the left side of Misery,to the left of False Perspective. Both corners are off, as are the good holds way left.

A very hard start (unless you have it wired) gives way to easier climbing. Plan on having trust in the frictional properties of quartzite if you want your feet to stick.

Protection [Edit]

Standard TR gear--may have been led.

Photos

Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
  5.9
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
  5.9
I climbed this for the first time this weekend and really enjoyed it! The comment in the description of the route about the "Frictional properties of Quartzite" are right on. While I was being lowered my shoes were slipping down the rock and making a squeeking sound. Ah, that lovely polished Quartzite...

The crux here is definitely down low. A couple of tricky sidepull holds and slippery footing are all you have to work with. I might also mention that a good reach helps. Altogether a great climb! Aug 12, 2002
Jay Knower
Campton, NH
 
Jay Knower   Campton, NH  
 
There was a rumor floating around some years back that John Long may have led this back in the day. I have no idea if Long even visited the Lake, and this rumor may be one of the more dubious Devil's Lake legends. May 9, 2003
Jay,

I heard the same rumor. Meaning, that he visited here. I seem to think not, due to the fact that he is more of a wallrat, than a short route guy. Hmmmm....

It would be interesting to find out. I'll e-mail him. May 9, 2003
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
  5.9
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
  5.9
False Perspective is a nice challenge. The puzzle is at the bottom, but generally it is a sustained climb. I huffed up it this weekend and had a blast. Apr 24, 2006
Tony Brengosz
  5.9
Tony Brengosz  
  5.9
Led this today, with a good brass offset in the gaston at the start. Not much gear for a ways after that, but the climbing eases off quite a bit. May 1, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I led this ground up onsight last night. I got in the good brassie that Tony mentions then a 00 BD MicroCam in a horizontal to protect the first 20 feet or so. I hugged the right side near the arete adjacent False Perspective and was able to get in a great Ball Nut in a horizontal placement.... then I got the great wired nut placement and 00 Metolius TCU in the thin crack at 2/3 height..... Good cam placement near the top in the horizontal where the neat sharp flake sticks out to protect the top out.... You gotta wander a bit to get the good placements on this but they are there.... the climbing gets easier as you get higher.... crux is definitely the start moves. Jul 7, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.9+
Nice OS Burt. Though short this route is definitely a good 5.9 in the Park. Jul 7, 2011
Burt Lindquist
Madison, WI
Burt Lindquist   Madison, WI  
I TR'd it after leading it and it felt closer to 5.10a if you climb straight up the middle.... Jul 8, 2011

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