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Routes in Misery Rocks

False Perspective T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fat Man's Misery TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
In the Way T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Life of Jam T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pillow Right Side, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pillow's Edge T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Pillow, The T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoke Hole T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tree Slot Chimney T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Wailing Wall TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Weeping Wall TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
unnamed route to left T,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a

Description

Misery is so named for the feeling one gets when attempting to climb here on the weekend. Ease of access and many good beginner climbs (along with some pretty hard routes) makes this a very popular area for groups.

The climbs in this area have been blessed with a great, flat hang out area at the bottom. Most routes have been led, but for obvious reasons, some are more popular than others. The Pillow, an aptly named rock slab leaning against the right side of Misery Rocks, offers great slab routes on its front side and shelter from the rain on the other side.

Getting There

To access Misery, head up the West bluff trail from the South until you see a freeway off ramp-style pull off. If you have reached Cleo's Ampitheater, you have gone too far.Follow this dirt trail to the top of the cliff.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Misery Rocks

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fat Man's Misery
TR
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Wailing Wall
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fat Man's Misery 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c TR
Wailing Wall 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
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Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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Photos

I am an independent climber as well as a scout leader. Misery is a good place for both, but it can get crowded. Go to Cleo's Amphitheater if you want to have a less crowded time. Make sure you bring an extra rope for the shady access route. Jun 18, 2012
Tom Anderson-Brown
Madison, WI
Tom Anderson-Brown   Madison, WI
We set up at Misery on Saturday and arrived about 10 minutes before a scout leader. This seems to be a very popular place for scouts, college groups, etc. The climing is very enjoyable, and the view ain't bad either. The pine tree at the top of the cliff was sheared off this winter, perhaps by the wind? Thankfully it fell to the south, so it isn't in the way of any of the routes. Apr 24, 2006

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