Exfoliation Confrontation
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 34.08355, -116.14213 |
| FA: | Bart Groendycke & Todd Alston, February 1990 |
| Page Views: | 3,292 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jan 4, 2005 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This is a fun and juggy route. There were a few decently protected cruxes where smaller holds had to be used, but all in all it was sinker holds. This was in sharp contrast to most of my "smearing" J-Tree experiences. It was more like climbing Southeastern sandstone!
This climb is on the right-hand portion of the Corral Wall, towards the left end of that side. Climb a dark wall with a few bolts and huge, apparent juggy holds, eventually going up and right into a light section of rock to finish at a 2 bolt anchor.
Rap to the ground with a 60 meter rope to descend.



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