PRINT: Rock Climb Exfoliation Confrontation, Joshua Tree National Park

Exfoliation Confrontation

5.9+, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 78 votes
FA: Bart Groendycke & Todd Alston, February 1990
California > Joshua Tree NP > Indian Cove > Rattlesnake Canyon > Corral Wall > Corral Wall - Right Side

Access Issue: Temporary Closure in effect from April 3 to June 15, 2024 Details

Temporary Closure for Nesting Raptors
Date Posted: 4/4/2024
Due to the presence of nesting raptors, the following rock climbing areas are temporarily closed: Slatanic Area, Rattlesnake Buttress, Margaret Thatcher Spire, The Stepping Stones, The Bulkhead, The Dunce Cap, and Commissioner’s Buttress.

Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.

For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…

Description

This is a fun and juggy route. There were a few decently protected cruxes where smaller holds had to be used, but all in all it was sinker holds. This was in sharp contrast to most of my "smearing" J-Tree experiences. It was more like climbing Southeastern sandstone!

This climb is on the right-hand portion of the Corral Wall, towards the left end of that side. Climb a dark wall with a few bolts and huge, apparent juggy holds, eventually going up and right into a light section of rock to finish at a 2 bolt anchor.

Rap to the ground with a 60 meter rope to descend.

Protection

4 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap and maybe a few slings on chicken heads. The lead is heady, but probably not dangerous. The runouts are on easier ground and non-threatening if you don't go tearing off holds.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Hey Buddy, Leggo my Ego

"Exfoliation Confrontation" climbs up the center and moves up and right, after the horizontal to anchors.<br>
Photo by Blitzo.

"Exfoliation Confrontation" climbs up the center and moves up and right, after the horizontal to anchors. Photo by Blitzo.

Exfoliation Confrontation (5.9)

1992

Shane on the Sharp End

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

susan peplow
Joshua Tree

5.9+

Good route that makes you think just off the deck. Reachy committing move to clip third bolt. Vogel guide rates this route at 9+ in my opinion any of the moves from the start past 3rd bolt is more difficult than "Hang 'em High" which is rated .10a.

Great route, makes you wish that Bart Groendycke (Megalith Clothing) & his brother Todd put up more routes in the area. Jan 22, 2007

attila

The bottom, vertical portion of the climb is fun, but there's no joy in the upper portion walk-up. I wouldn't prioritize doing this one; fine if other routes are taken. Feb 20, 2010

Ken Lawrence

Tough start. Tried to climb this one without placing any pro and had to bail. I could have climbed it if I weren't already spent. I left a loop of cord on bolt #3, so please return it to me if you grab it. On a side note, a huge tarantula walked across my belayer's feet. Oct 25, 2011

MikeP ROWCC

5.9+

Getting off the ground consisted of standing on some super polised footholds. The first couple of moves were the crux for me. The rest had some nice square edges and sidepulls that you don't get often in jtree. The top were the climbing lets off makes you pay attention if only to make sure the rock is solid. Feb 19, 2013

RocKleiner

I thought the crux was definitely the first couple moves off the deck. Fun moves through the first half of the route. It felt a little run-out at times, but I think that was based primarily on the 1/4 button-heads with what appear to be Leepers. New bolts on the anchor, but with the older(Leeper?)hangers. Apr 30, 2013

Kevi n

Found first 10-12 feet to be harder than many 10's in the park. Curious if this is still in original condition or if some hold have changed/broken off. Jan 24, 2022