Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Louie Anderson, Geoff Archer & Ripley Casdorph, February 1990
Page Views: 92 total · 1/month
Shared By: Will S on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

A couple of moves lead to a short crack down low, followed by slabby face crossing a couple of horizontal breaks. The crux is in the lower section and protectable. The 'R' is for the top section that is a much easier bolt-protected slab/face.

Location

A few yards left of Exfoliation Confrontation (5.9) and just right of (finishing to the same anchors as) Hang Em High. Identifiable by the two well-spaced bolts up high.

Protection

Pro to hand sized, two bolts protect the upper half. Continue back from the topout about 10' to a two bolt anchor/rap station on the wall above the topout ledge.

Photos

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susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b R
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b R
Lower section seems to be the crux. Protectable with medium size nut in vertical crack and/or larger cam just below in horizontal. If you can make it past the lower section to clip the bolt, the upper run-out should be no problem for you.

If this route took better pro down low it would get a few more stars from me. Jan 22, 2007
FA: Louie Anderson, Geoff Archer & Ripley Casdorph 2/90 Feb 2, 2010