Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Geoff Archer & Louie Anderson, February 1990
Page Views: 1,041 total · 7/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Jan 21, 2007
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Climb juggy rock down low past 2 bolts follow crack/arete system to anchor. Start watching for anchors on right wall or you can climb right past them (keep moving up and right after the slanting crack system, the anchors are on a sort of fin around to the right - not straight up).

Warning: Watch out for a bee hive in a hole/slot left from the anchor. VERY active on warm days (which are often at Corral Wall).

Location

This route can be found 50 feet right of Exfoliation Confrontation or just left of Czech Crack.

Protection

2 bolts down low. Possible gear further up but seems unnecessary as it's low angle and well featured. Two bolt anchor with rap rings located on right hand wall (shares with "Czech Crack")

Photos

attila  
There appears to be a bee's nest near the anchors for this climb (Feb. 20 2010). Feb 20, 2010
aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
  5.8
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
  5.8
One of the starting holds broke on me after barely pulling on it. Very likely that the start is harder now. In general, this climb is loose if you step, pull on the holds left of the bolt line. Be careful. Dec 26, 2014
Matt Hagny
  5.7
Matt Hagny  
  5.7
Even after the hold on the bottom broke, this is barely a 5.7 by J-tree standards. Jan 2, 2015
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Wonder why Miramontes gave this 5.6... Dec 22, 2015
makio13
san diego
makio13   san diego
climbed this 4/14/17, never found the bolted anchor. moving up the arĂȘte to the juggy flaky section above, there is a bee's nest. moving above that, going to the top, the flakes are VERY unstable. no bolts up top either. The walk off wasn't bad from the top, but be careful through the flakes. Maybe we missed the anchor bolts? Apr 17, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Same thing happened here... May 9, 2017
Matt Hagny
  5.7
Matt Hagny  
  5.7
It was listed as 5.9 in the 2d Edition Miramontes. He has it at 5.6 in the 3d Edition. 5.6 is more realisitic. Dec 4, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
Maybe, but I haven't noticed that kind of downgrade from him. Rather the opposite which apparently errs on the side of safety and is sensible for a general guidebook audience. Nov 6, 2018