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Routes in Short Wall - Left Side

Belay Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calcutta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face to Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fluff Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lateralus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left V Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mad Race T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pfundt's Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riff Raff Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right V Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Step 'n Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 919 total, 6/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 30, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

"That's going to leave a mark." The moves were fun, but one key jam was a little sharp. This was the one climb in J-tree (I did 92 routes on this past trip) that made me wish I'd taped up a little. My non-taping parnter and I had matching dents/scratches after the pitch.

Just left of the ever-popular pitches of Calcutta & Bombay there is a vertical crack going up 5 Meters to a roof, which you can jam and stem up and right to get through. Climb up and over this (crux, decent pro) and finish on easier rock to the top of the wall.

Were it not for the grit and sharpness of a few moves, I'd give it 2 stars. Honestly, this route would clean up with some traffic, but it doesn't get any.

Protection

A set of nuts and cams. Tricams go well too.

Photos

alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.10a
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.10a
underrated imho.... Jan 7, 2014
How is belayer's leg? I was on ground belaying Double Trouble, and saw from about 20 ft away. Came over and helped. Some more pictures from that before it happened, if they might help:
www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=108634&id=1280880587&l=b9c5bf>>>


from someone elses comment on pic.. thought this should be upfront on main page comments for the climb.. Apr 17, 2013
avk
 
avk  
 
It may be chosy in the beginning of the climb but I think the moves are fun. I like it. Feb 8, 2010
im incorrectly noted at a first ascentionist here
joey and i did tope roped this pitch on the date mentioned, in the june sun with the rotting corpse of some gopher size animal just out of jams reach in the cruz, but the name is certainly from an earlier ascent Jul 3, 2008