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Routes in Short Wall - Left Side

Belay Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calcutta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face to Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fluff Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lateralus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left V Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mad Race T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pfundt's Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riff Raff Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right V Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Step 'n Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Unknown, FFA: John Long and Kieth Cunning, 1979
Page Views: 748 total, 4/month
Shared By: Adam Stackhouse on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the left V Crack route. This starts as for Right V Crack, so look for the right-leaning blaze of chalk. This route leaves Right V just off the ground and goes vertically up a seam the left. Very thin.

Protection

TR. Possibly this could be led, but I've never heard of it happening. Would take micronuts at the very least.

Photos

We led this using the right V Crack for the first move only - as I recall. There was a very hard off-finger sequence at the bottom we both mearly fell off of. Pro was carap and I wouldn't have led it had I known that. Maybe small camming units are the ticket. Mar 16, 2015
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
Did a variation to this... used the right V until about 12 feet up and then fully committed to the left crack. Pretty fun and did not feel .11b. Starting direct and eliminating the Right V would be way hard. Mar 21, 2011