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Routes in Short Wall - Left Side

Belay Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calcutta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face to Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fluff Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lateralus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left V Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mad Race T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pfundt's Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riff Raff Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right V Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Step 'n Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,132 total, 7/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2004
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the obvious crack that separates the face with Double Trouble (5.10a) and Fluff Boy (5.8).

Unprotected, but easy, climbing leads up to the base of the crack proper which affords good jams and protection. The crux comes about two-thirds height, just past the point where Fluff Boy cuts off right, and involves negotiating a short offwidth section (face left). After the crux the angle kicks back and it's a breeze to the top.

The descent is tricky to do without the difficulty exceeding that of the route itself (welcome to Joshua Tree!), but the easiest way is to head right and then tunnel through until you come out above the Right V Crack. Make a leap (rope up if needed) across to the top of Linda's Face, where easy slabs lead the rest of the way to the ground.

A decent route for the beginner leader that features a somewhat involved downclimb - perfect training for the many complex descents found at Joshua Tree. One star out of five.

Protection

pro to 3.5"

Photos

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Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, California
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, California
Just as a note, as a new leader, I found this route to be a little awkward like others mentioned and not particularly easy to protect but by no means a difficult beginner lead. It can easily be climbed one handed on top rope ;) May 23, 2016
Royce Robertson
Joshua Tree, California
Royce Robertson   Joshua Tree, California
This historic day marked the second B4 (see mountainproject.com/v/holds…), the formation of the ABCA (American Beer Climbing Association) and two new board members Rich and Gina Barrera (in addition to founders Royce Robertson and Will Casolara)! May 23, 2016
Edubs  
There are bolts up and to the right, at the top of Fluff Boy, that can be used to rappel. Nov 2, 2015
shelby beardslee
29 Palms, CA
5.6
shelby beardslee   29 Palms, CA
5.6
Its not that bad... I lead this and kept thinking 5.4 my kids should be able to climb 5.4 with that in mind I give this a 5.6 because there are some tricky stems and jams up top. Also you need some big pieces to protect that top section if you feel you need to. There are anchors on top of the adjacent climbs. Jul 4, 2011
72HW Holly
  5.4
72HW Holly  
  5.4
Uh - maybe I'm being too picky, but if I were to have lead this as one of my first times on the sharp end, I think I would have sold my rack and took up curling instead. Insecure feeling, off balance, elbow jams and wonky chimney moves towards the top. Just not fun. Maybe this route (as listed on MP.com) differs from the one in Vogel's guide and I climbed something else, but I kinda doubt it. And just to have it said, my wife who followed me up this grunt fest agrees 100% with the Bomb rating. Feb 19, 2008