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Routes in Short Wall - Left Side

Belay Girl S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Bombay T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Calcutta T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Trouble TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Face to Face TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Fluff Boy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lateralus T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Arete TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Left V Crack T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Mad Race T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Pfundt's Folly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Riff Raff Roof T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Right V Crack T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Step 'n Out T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,646 total, 25/month
Shared By: C Miller on Jun 28, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


73 Opinions

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Description

Easily the best line on the wall and one of the better cracks in the immediate area, the striking line of the Right V Crack is a must for crack climbing aficionados.

The climbing is fairly continuous and starts off with good finger locks and slippery feet down low, past an easier middle section to finish up an interesting lieback around a bulge higher. Originally rated 5.10a it appears that years of traffic have polished the start so much that it's gotten a bit harder. Two or even three stars out of five.

Location

Located in the center of the crag at the right margin of the taller portion of the crag.

Protection

Gear to 2.5" with an emphasis on thinner stuff for the crux. Slings are handy if you wish to extend the anchor.
David Capo
  5.10b
David Capo  
  5.10b
I loved it. The first time I ran it i pumped out on it, but managed to make it to the top. I ran it again and made it no problem. I didn't notice any real slipperiness exept for a couple tiny spots. Solid finger jams the whole way up. Dec 29, 2014
Klimbien
St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Klimbien   St.George Orem Denver Vegas
Where and what do most do for the anchor on this? Dec 25, 2014
mountainhick
Black Hawk, CO
  5.10b
mountainhick   Black Hawk, CO
  5.10b
I didn't know about the slick feet starting this, doesn't look too slick, but feet greased a couple times. Due to this, the resulting body tension to stay on and place pro from dubious feet made it feel solid at 5.10b. Great line! Three stars for quality, but taken in context of the Indian cove area. Really pretty short Dec 20, 2013
Rodger Raubach
  5.10b
Rodger Raubach  
  5.10b
My favorite route in Indian Cove. Nice continuous climbing at the grade with a few easier moves along the way. Very enjoyable and an excellent intro to JTree crack climbing. Anne did well, and Gary made it look about 5.2. Sep 8, 2010
caughtinside
Oakland CA
 
caughtinside   Oakland CA
 
yo jasmine! Are we gonna get any of those photos? I think we got one mid flight. Feb 27, 2010
Jasmine Kall  
 
Maybe I should wait to try it again later... Got pumped out on this climb and took a nice lead fall. My first... Try it again in 6 months. Feb 26, 2010
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10b
Easily the best route at the crag. Do it in cold weather and it's not so bad/slick, which is nicer, but there are a few hard moves; maybe middle 5.10. Apr 4, 2009
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
5.10a? Has gotten slippery over the past couple decades! Best route on "Short Wall"! Sep 8, 2006
it was a 10c toprope 20 yrs ago b4 it got greasy...

and bengston and bowling solo it via headlamps? Jan 10, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
When Dave Bengston and Mark Bowling soloed over 200 routes in a day at Josh they both soloed this climb by headlamp...just some useless local trivia. Dec 5, 2002
Josh Beck
  5.10c
Josh Beck  
  5.10c
Stellar... but definitely harder than Vogel gives it. Dec 5, 2002
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
 
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
 
A good lead as well, but as mentioned, the heavily-chalked finger crack tends to get damn greasy. If you want to practice your "greasy finger crack" technique, try this one mid-afternoon on a nice summer's day. ;) Jun 28, 2002