Avg: 2.7 from 152 votes
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft (18 m)|
|FA:||Tobin Soreson, Jim Wilson & Guy Keese, 1975|
|Page Views:||4,551 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 27, 2003|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Mike Morley, C Miller, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Gunkswest|
This route is on the West Face of the West Side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs Road. The route is in the sun all day and makes for a warm place to climb on a cold, windy day. There are two sub-rocks here, divided by a hanging valley. The Northward (left, toward the West Entrance) of these formations is referred to as the Hot Tub, and the South (right, toward Hidden Valley) formation is Watanobe Wall, which has a namesake route.
Watanobe Wall (the climb) is on the North (left) end of the Watanobe Wall buttress and ascends a rather obvious, steep, right-leaning crack system. This climb abounds with 'knobs'... "what a nobby wall" indeed, but primarily for the upper half. Significant jamming skills are also employed. This area can be reached from the inside of Steve Canyon by picking your way past Tennis Shoe Crack and over the saddle close to the North end, with some easy 5th class down climbing (5.3 or loose your way and it will be 5.6). It can also be approached more easily from the road parking areas to the West.
Climb up and right in the initial crack for about 20 feet to reach a crux horizontal jam, then pull up and right into the second crack in the system (large cam here). Climb this stellar crack for 20 feet, then either go left (easier) or continue in the same system to the right (better). Either way, you will reach a sloping shelf with a horizontal crack below a large boulder that forms the summit block. You can build a gear anchor in this horizontal if you wish to set up a TR (green, red, gold cams and a cordalette needed). If you wish to go to the summit, climb up and left through horizontals or go up a wide crack to the right (4" gear, but easy).