Avg: 2.6 from 90 votes
Routes in Watanobe Wall
|Bored of the Rings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Come-n-Do-Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Do Do TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fire Me a Fart Burger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Season Opener T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wataneasy Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Watanobe Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 60 ft|
|FA:||Tobin Soreson, Jim Wilson & Guy Keese, 1975|
|Page Views:||2,733 total, 16/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 27, 2003|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Description2 or 3 stars, depending on how the route is done. FInishing left (as shown in topo) is easier and less fun. Finishing right adds a second crux and is more sustained, singular and fun. Either way, the climb is a reasonably long pitch for J-tree and is certainly safe and protectable and accessible.
This route is on the West Face of the West Side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail SPrings road. There are 2 sub-rocks here. The Northward of these is referred to as the Hot Tub, and the South as Watanobe Wall, which has a namesake route.
Watanobe Wall (the climb) is on the North end of the Watanobe Wall buttress and ascends a rather obvious, steep, right-leaning crack system. This climb abounds with 'knobs'... "what a nobby wall" indeed, but primarily for the upper half. Significant jamming skills are also employed. This area can be reached from the inside of Steve Canyon by picking your way past Tennis Shoe Crack and over the saddle close to the North end, with some easy 5th class down climbing (5.3 or loose your way and it will be 5.6). It can also be approached more easily from the road parking areas to the West.
Climb up and right in the initial crack for ~7M to reach a crux horizontal jam (#3 cam) and then pull up and right into the second crack in the system. Climb this stellar crack for ~9M more, then either go left (easier 5.8?) or continue in the same system to the right (better, 5.9, and more like the lower portion). Either way, you will take landing on the left or right side of a large attached boulder on a large sloping ledge. Climb up the left through horizontals, going well left where required, or to the right in wide crack (4" gear, but easy) to reach the top of the wall. Walk East ~7M to reach a fixed belay at the top of Tennis Shoe Crack.
Descend as down the rap on the E Face above tennis shoe crack Or Candellabra and walk SW or scramble SE back to the base.