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Routes in Watanobe Wall

Bored of the Rings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Come-n-Do-Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do Do TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Me a Fart Burger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Season Opener T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wataneasy Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watanobe Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Haber and Haber '99
Page Views: 63 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Kelly on Aug 26, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Short, awkward, offwidth and grainy at the top; this is for zero star aficionados only. There are plenty of other climbs in the area around this grade that are far superior.

Fairly easy climbing on big features outside of a wide crack leads to a very awkward move into a leaning, less than vertical off-width. Writhe to the top of that section, as the angle eases you can get out of the crack and head up any of the 4th / 5.0 paths to wherever you want to set an anchor.

Rappel off the back (Facing Sidewinder).

Location

Up around the corner to the right of Season Opener. Scramble over some blocks and work around a large boulder. The route starts under a small roofish section leading to an offwidth set in a right-facing corner.

Protection

Take a larger piece or two (a 4 is nice) for the OW, and a couple more pieces for the rest. Or just don’t climb the route.

Photos

Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
No worries... no harm, no foul. I wrote the route description with a fair amount of tongue and cheek; yours was a fair statement. Sep 2, 2008
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
Upon re-reading the comment I wrote, I find it somewhat rude and demeaning. I apologize for being so thoughtless. Aug 29, 2008
Ryan Kelly
work.
 
Ryan Kelly   work.
 
I don't think anybody can give an opinion on a route completely devoid of personal preference. Even the best hand-sized splitters in the world have antagonists for one reason or another. More average routes and the obscure have an even wider range of opinions. Certainly an awkward, offwidth/chimney on grainy rock will have its opposition.

I’ve climbed plenty of ‘zero-star routes’ at Jtree, anybody who’s spent some time there has. Hell, for many it turns into a bittersweet obsession. I may mention, or even recommend such routes to friends, but I’ll certainly preface it as a ‘zero-star route’.

No, it’s not a five-star classic; if I could give it half a star I would have. Unfortunately MP doesn’t have a zero star rating, only a bomb; but with more votes it all evens out. I see you didn’t vote at all. Aug 28, 2008
Brandt Allen
Joshua Tree, Cal
Brandt Allen   Joshua Tree, Cal
I enjoyed this route.
The dislike that the poster seems to have for this climb may be more of a projection of his own personal preferences rather than any real problems with the route. While it's not a five-star classic, it's one of many ordinary JT climbs that that are well worth ticking off. Aug 27, 2008