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Routes in Watanobe Wall

Bored of the Rings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Come-n-Do-Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do Do TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Me a Fart Burger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Season Opener T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wataneasy Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watanobe Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Herb Laeger & Kevin Wright, October 1988
Page Views: 1,187 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6 meters off of the deck, then walk/squirm into a bit of a boulder-grotto at the base. Climb up the face to reach a bolt (5.10a), into the left side of the huge roof (bolt, cam, 10b), then pulls right (crux?) into a traverse of a semi-horizontal crack to it's right end (easier here, with gear if desired), then goes back up the wall again on face moves past a bolt (5.8). At the top the climbing is runout just a shave at the 5.7/8 level. Descend by rapping from bolts atop the route Candelabra and then walk back to the base.

Location

This route is on the outside of Steve Canyon, facing west towards the road, and actually is located on the far right side of the Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacado) or approached more easily still from the road/parking areas to the west.

Protection

A standard light rack. You will only place a few pieces other than clipping bolts, but you will want what you get. Carry a few 2' slings to reduce drag.

Photos

1/4" bolts. 1st one is almost pointless, seems way off route. Interesting (read: awkward) crux move over the roof. It was a bit of a belly flop for me. Two bolts on the upper face.

The picture of the route isnt right either. There is a bolt at the very bottom, and the route goes up the crack over the roof (the pic shows face climbing to the loet of the crack). And there are two bolts on the upper slab section, not one as shown. Dec 12, 2010