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Routes in Watanobe Wall

Bored of the Rings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Come-n-Do-Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do Do TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Me a Fart Burger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Season Opener T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wataneasy Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watanobe Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans & Kelly Carignan, May 1986
Page Views: 1,162 total, 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

1 star; it could have been 2 but for the face that the climb is a little difficult to approach and the line discontinuous. Either way, the climb is still a good, safe and protectable line to do once in the area.

This route is on the West Face of the West Side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. There are 2 sub-rocks here. The Northward of these is referred to as the Hot Tub, and the South of these is also known as Watanobe Wall. This area can be reached from the inside of Steve Canyon by picking your way past Tennis Shoe Crack and over the saddle close to the North end, with some easy 5th class down climbing (5.3 or loose your way and it will be 5.6). It can also be approached more easily from the road parking areas to the West.

To find this route, first find Watanobe Wall (the climb), a rather obvious, steep, right-leaning crack system. Get to the base of W.W. and rack up and put on your shoes- Yei Bei Chei Crack si the sytem up and right, which has its base obscured from every direction by boulders. Scramble up and over (3rd or 4th class) to the baseof the next system right and climb. The beginning protects soon enough with stoppers and along most of the way remains the same. Once you reach the large sloping ledge up top, move left and finish on the right side of a rounded, attached boulder (wider crack, but easy) to the top.

Walk East ~7M to reach a fixed belay at the top of Tennis Shoe Crack.

Descend as down the rap on the E Face above Tennis Shoe Crack or Candellabra and walk SW or scramble SE back to the base.

Protection

A set of stoppers (maybe a few extras if you sew things up) and a set fo cams from 1-3" A few fist-sized pieces might go in up top.

Photos

nathanael
Riverside, CA
  5.10a
nathanael   Riverside, CA
  5.10a
Actually pretty good climbing on this one, though it's over quite quickly. Interesting mix of fingerlocks and face holds. Dec 17, 2016
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
DJ Reyes   Northern Nevada
I never thought the approach was overly difficult. I enjoyed this route when I climbed it in the early 90's. The discontinous nature of the crack adds interest and thoughtfulness to the climbing. Mar 17, 2008
David Evans
  5.9
David Evans  
  5.9
FA. Gordon, Evans, Carignan 5/86 Jan 15, 2004