Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Todd Gordon, Dave Evans & Kelly Carignan, May 1986
Page Views: 1,360 total · 7/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003 with improvements by Matt Hagny
Admins: Greg Opland, C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

1 star; it could have been 2 but for the face that the climb is a little difficult to approach and the line discontinuous. Either way, the climb is still a good, safe and protectable line to do once in the area.

This route is on the outside of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. There are 2 formations here. The northwest of these is the Hot Tub, and the southeast is Watanobe Wall.

To find this route, first find Watanobe Wall (the climb), a rather obvious, steep, right-leaning crack system in dark rock (crack starts above a flake & mini-roof). Get to the base of W.W. and rack up and put on your shoes- Yei Bei Chei Crack Is up and right, which has its base obscured from every direction by boulders. Climb up (5.3) to the base and rope up.  Traverse into the vertical thin crack from the ramp leading up from the RH side.  Once you reach the large sloping ledge, move left and continue up (this is the same finish as the right branch of WW route).

A few meters to the northwest are the rap rings (also used by Tennis Shoe Crack).

Protection

A set of stoppers (maybe a few extras if you sew things up) and a set fo cams from 1-3" A few fist-sized pieces might go in up top.

Photos