Avg: 2.1 from 36 votes
Routes in Watanobe Wall
|Bored of the Rings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Come-n-Do-Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Do Do TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Fire Me a Fart Burger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Season Opener T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Wataneasy Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Watanobe Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 80 ft|
|FA:||Alan Bartlett & Dave Black, January 1983|
|Page Views:||165 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||Tony B on Dec 27, 2003|
|Admins:||C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
DescriptionThis route is on the south-most buttress of the west face of the west side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. This is the south end of Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacodo) or approached more easily still from the road parking areas to the west. Approaching from the inside of Steve Canyon is a waste of time and energy. Go out to the south, then around to the west.
To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6 meters off of the deck, then walk/squirm to the base on a worn footpath into a bit of a boulder-grotto. This climb is on the left of the exposed wall, in a steep, right-leaning crack system. Climb up and right in this crack to reach a horizontal, then continue up and right on the face above, which gets lower angled as you go. There is no pro up top, but the grade gets easier with the runout. Once you reach the top, go straight back to a cam or large-nut belay in a horizontal crack.
Descent is down the rap on the east face above Candelabra and walk back around to the base.