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Routes in Watanobe Wall

Bored of the Rings T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Come-n-Do-Me T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Do Do TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fire Me a Fart Burger T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
I'm Already Bored with the New Millennium T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Season Opener T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wataneasy Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Watanobe Wall T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Yei-Bei-Chei Crack T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Alan Bartlett & Dave Black, January 1983
Page Views: 165 total, 1/month
Shared By: Tony B on Dec 27, 2003
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is on the south-most buttress of the west face of the west side of Steve Canyon, facing Quail Springs road. This is the south end of Watanobe Wall. This climb and others by it are best reached by going to the left from the south entrance to Steve Canyon (past Grand Theft Avacodo) or approached more easily still from the road parking areas to the west. Approaching from the inside of Steve Canyon is a waste of time and energy. Go out to the south, then around to the west.

To find this route first spot a rather obvious roof, perhaps 6 meters off of the deck, then walk/squirm to the base on a worn footpath into a bit of a boulder-grotto. This climb is on the left of the exposed wall, in a steep, right-leaning crack system. Climb up and right in this crack to reach a horizontal, then continue up and right on the face above, which gets lower angled as you go. There is no pro up top, but the grade gets easier with the runout. Once you reach the top, go straight back to a cam or large-nut belay in a horizontal crack.

Descent is down the rap on the east face above Candelabra and walk back around to the base.

Protection

A standard Light rack. The upper 1/3 of this line is face climbing without protection, but it is progressively less steep with increasing height and the danger is probably minimal despite the runout. Cams in a horizontal provide a TR or belay anchor back some distance from the route.

Photos

Justin Tomlinson
Monrovia, CA
 
Justin Tomlinson   Monrovia, CA
 
The right slanting angle of the crack will require moves not ordinary for most Jtree routes. The pro in the crack is good. The top out on balancy, small feet, traversing higher and farther from your last pro adds spice! Jan 16, 2017
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
  5.8
Super fun climbing to get there however! Mar 7, 2011
Kyle Wills
Chicago, IL
  5.8
Kyle Wills   Chicago, IL
  5.8
There are no issues with a lack of gear at the top, There is ridiculously great gear before you pull the bulge onto the top slab section, and the angle is super duper low, and no one would have any issues with a lack of gear...... you can literally walk to the belay stance. Mar 7, 2011
Ryan Kelly
work.
  5.8
Ryan Kelly   work.
  5.8
I disagree with the R rating. The initial face moves are done with a protectable crack at your feet. After that itÂ’s 4th class tops. Apr 28, 2008
armand rollice
rancho cucamonga
 
armand rollice   rancho cucamonga
 
Good route. The tricky part was at the top. Thank you blue tricam in the flared crack. Feb 27, 2008
Drederek
  5.8
Drederek  
  5.8
A great route with an awkward, balancey section. We scrambled straight over to the east side and rapped off chains. Nov 8, 2004