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Routes in Inauguron Dome

Inauguron, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morality Test T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tony Balonie TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tony Carbonie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bread Fever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yardy Hoo and Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jonny Woodward, Maria Cranor, & Darrell Hensel, 1986
Page Views: 75 total, 0/month
Shared By: Vernon Stiefel on Oct 18, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Begin on a small sloping ledge at the left end of the crag and climb in a right diagonal direction past the first two bolts. Continue, more or less, straight up past a short crack and two more bolts to a ledge. Crux moves on thin edges / knobs occur past the 4th bolt. The second pitch ascends an arching crack and face (5.8 R).


The first pitch protects with quickdraws for 4 bolts and a medium stopper / small cam for a short crack between the 2nd and 3rd bolts. The second pitch ascends a low angle face / crack to two inches. Walk off to the right.


Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
The four bolts are all original, thirty years old, and highly suspect. The first two are the award winning 1/4" bolt/Leeper hanger combo. The fourth bolt protecting the crux and subsequent runout is an SMC spinner (1/4" bolt I think). It doesn't get much more confidence inspiring than that. Feb 8, 2016
C Miller
C Miller   CA  
Good climbing that's better protected than appearances and/or the fact it's a Woodward route first suggest. A worthwhile tick if in the area. Nov 24, 2003
I remember the climbing to the first of four bolts was mentally demanding (5.10) but I don't remember any other sections in betweeen the pro that were "sporty." I didn't think the route deserved an R rating for the first pitch (I submitted the evaluation for the climb). However, it is a J. Woodward route so.... Nov 24, 2003
Unless someone has added a bolt to this route, the 1st pitch is a bit sporty. Nov 24, 2003