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Routes in Inauguron Dome

Inauguron, The T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Morality Test T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Tony Balonie TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tony Carbonie T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Bread Fever T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Yardy Hoo and Away T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R

Description

This large, west facing formation lies in the southern end of Secret Valley; a north-south canyon lying northeast of Disneyland Dome and Southeast of Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Matting Grotto. Other formations in Secret Valley include Elephant Arches and Hard Rock, both of which lie north of Inuaguron Dome.

Ingauguron Dome has several excellent face and crack routes; several 2 pitches in length. Routes are found on the larger left-hand (northern) end and the recessed and higher right-hand (southern) end. The best routes include: The Inauguron (11b, 2 pitches); Morality Test (11b, 2 pitches); Yardy-Hoo And Away (10a, 2 pitches) and White Bread Fever (11c, 2 pitches). Bring a full range of gear; the face routes are trad bolted and may require other gear.

Getting There

The most straightforward approach is to walk out the Wonderland Valley from Uncle Willey's, continuing north past the Freak Brothers, Disneyland and Duckwaddle Domes. At a point approximately 400 yards north of Duckwaddle Dome, you should turn right (east) into a valley/wash [this is before the wash you turn into to reach Diarrhea Dome/Bighorn Mating Grotto]. Head east for about 350 yards (passing Gumby Dome). The terrain becomes more jumbled near the end; boulder hop over and down into Secret Valley. Elephant Arches will be to the left (north) and Inauguron Dome to the right (south).

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Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
On the right side of this dome is the excellent Tony Carbone (5.10b). It's 2 pitches and not R rated. First pitch has bolts, and the 2nd pitch goes past a bolt or 2 then up a 5.8 crack. Mar 26, 2009

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