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Routes in Corral Wall - Left Side

A Fistfull of Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuck Wagon Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
City Slickers TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corral Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Herd Instinct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Plains Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honky Justice T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Party in the Desert T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in the West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Party till Ya' Puke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ranch Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six-Gun by My Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way Out West TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Wild West S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Randy Vogel, Todd Gordon and Cyndie Bransford, 1992
Page Views: 711 total, 4/month
Shared By: Randy on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This short (aren't they all), but interesting, route lies on the left end of the Corral Wall, just left of Chuck Wagon Crack. Begin with a short left-arching thin crack, exit this (crux), then up face above to a large ledge with a 2 bolt anchor. Rappel off (50 feet) from here.

The solution to the crux may not be immediately obvious, which is why the rating was made harder than previously reported. 2 of 5 stars.

Protection

TCUs, or equivalent, 2 bolts and a fixed pin. 2 bolt anchor/ 50 foot rap off.

Photos

toddgordon Gordon
Joshua Tree, California
toddgordon Gordon   Joshua Tree, California
I put the bolts in, and aided through the crux. Randy was able to do the route free. Cyndie was able to do the route with many hangs. Mar 30, 2010
Murf
 
Murf  
 
Took some falls off this one this w/e ( take it from me,the pin is good ). I didn't see any manufactured holds or wasp's nests. In fact, I wish there had been a sloper, 'cause the crimper I used ( repeatedly, I admit ), has worn a bloody hole in my finger. This would be an extremely difficult onsite. Jan 22, 2007
Randy
 
Randy  
 
Tony:

Not sure what you saw, but no glue or modifications when I recently checked it out.

The crux is really hard to figure out, involving a layback/pinch on the right edge of the crack and highstepping onto it. It is one of those moves/combos that makes the route seem near impossible until you figure it out, then it seems not so bad. Jan 18, 2005
Randy
 
Randy  
 
WTF! Unless someone has seriously messed with this route in recent history, nothing Tony says makes the slightest bit of sense. The route involved some funky pinch layback moves which are pretty hard to fingure out. If some frustrated person decided to change the route because they couldn't do it, well, that is a shame. Jan 16, 2005
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.12
Hard, hard route. Impossible for me to on-sight anyway. I thought maybe 12+.

I first tried to do this route without what I thought was a crux hold. It is not that I didn't see the hold, but more that I was avoiding it. It's size, shape, color and texture were consistent witha mud-douber wasp's nest, and I thought that grabbing it could result in a trip-ruining sting. Once I grabbed a TR rope and pulled my way way up past the hold I realized it was a large sloper of epoxy-crete. It was sugggested by my partner to grab a rock and smash it off, but I don't know the history here and I'm not a local so I left it.

It has since been verified no-longer-present (removed?) and this is a good thing. Jan 16, 2005