Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Geoff Archer & Louie Anderson, February 1990
Page Views: 865 total · 5/month
Shared By: Tony B on Jan 4, 2005
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


10 Opinions

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Description

This was a fun route. I've heard it told that the route is 5.11 if you eliminate the obvious wide crack on the left. But why? You can sit in a no-hands knee bar while clipping the bolts, so it seems natural to do it that way. The 10c grade assigned here is accounting for that. The first few clips are close to the crack and if you do use the crack at first for a kneebar, or later for an arete-like pinch or slappy lieback/barndoor, the crux comes just after leaving the crack to go belly-to-the bolts. There is a small and relatively blank section of face (10c?). Finish on easier climbing to reach a solid anchor.

Really fun and if using the crack, pretty unique!

Rap to the ground to descend.

Protection

5 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor or TR from the anchor. The bolts are pretty close together and the lead is not too "sporty".

Photos

Snupe
SoCak
Snupe   SoCak
FYI, the first bolt appeared to be loose ... not just the hanger, but the bolt itself seemed to have nearly about half a cm of give in and out of the sleeve/hole. Jan 4, 2011
Richard Shore
  5.10d
Richard Shore  
  5.10d
First bolt spins in the hole, and the nut can't be tightened. It won't likely pull out, just be warned.

Knee-barring up the chimney to the second bolt seemed like the natural line to me. I'd still give the slab part .10d though. Dec 19, 2012
Jim Dover
Idyllwild, CA
Jim Dover   Idyllwild, CA
10 c my ass. Only if you use the off-width to the left for a good ways. The bolts have been replaced with glue-ins VERY recently. Mar 5, 2018