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Routes in Corral Wall - Left Side

A Fistfull of Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuck Wagon Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
City Slickers TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corral Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Herd Instinct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Plains Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honky Justice T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Party in the Desert T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in the West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Party till Ya' Puke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ranch Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six-Gun by My Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way Out West TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Wild West S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Louie Anderson and Bob Bealle, March 1990
Page Views: 1,628 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the next bolted route left of Party in the Desert and offers quality slab climbing with generally good protection.

Two starts exist for this route - the recommended start is via a thinning crack (pro to 1.25") that climbs directly to the second bolt, while the alternative (and original) start passes a solitary bolt right of the crack and involves contrived moves up and left to join the second bolt.

The crux comes at the fourth bolt as you mantle a tiny shelf (optional 0.5" cam here) and then make delicate moves past it. Higher more friction moves lead up to a bolted anchor.

Fun moves on good rock that will test your footwork and nerves, albeit safely. One star out of five, but add a star for the direct (crack) start.

Protection

5 bolts, optional pro to 3", bolted anchor/rap

Photos

alleyehave
San Diego, CA
  5.10a/b
alleyehave   San Diego, CA
  5.10a/b
Favorite route i've done at Corral Wall Jan 11, 2015
Rob M
Shangri-LA
 
Rob M   Shangri-LA
 
Really enjoyed this route. Couple of good technical moves around second bolt. A little spicy first time, dials in quickly though on repeat. Mar 11, 2013
MikeP ROWCC
  5.10a
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.10a
Very nice "sport" route. Got my heart pumping in the middle when I pressud up on a small edge and almost peeled off backwards. The bolts are wierd down low and had to make a sketchy move across the face to clip the bolt. Feb 19, 2013
mmurduff Mic
  5.10a
mmurduff Mic  
  5.10a
Felt to me every bit of 5.10a. Extremely enjoyable smearing, pinches, crimpers and plenty of high stepping with the mantle move up top. Direct start wasn't ever an option, just followed the bolts (bolt number 2 seems odd, but makes sense when you see the rope-line together). Jan 11, 2013
attila
 
attila  
 
This is a very satisfying route. Perhaps this is overlooked because the climb next door is considered the classic of the crag; this one shouldn't be missed. Beautiful setting, good edgy moves, and it's even comfortable belaying from the anchor. Short climbers may want to pass on leading this one, as some clipping stances will be very difficult. Feb 20, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10a
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10a
Bartlett guide for Indian Cove suggests you can skip the first bolt. If coming up from the left that seems reasonable. I went up on the right and wouldn't consider skipping it. Second bolt difficult to clip. Upper section which looks steep provides good edges and smearing. Fun. Jan 22, 2007
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
  5.10a
Single move of 10a if you approach from directly below the bolts. Maybe 1 move a little harder if you climb in from the right, as the line of bolts would imply is intended. But I don't get it...The direct line looks natural and well, direct. The traverse in seems contrived and unneccessary. As well, it's no easier. Maybe it was placed to give an "all sport" option while not placing a bolt by a servicable gear placement? Jan 16, 2005
Woody Stark
  5.10b
Woody Stark  
  5.10b
I've led this route a number of times; it's sustained, challenging and harder than 10a. It's one of my favorite routes on "Corral Wall". Nov 25, 2003