Type: Trad, 70 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Alan Bartlett, Mike Wilson and Sam Waggoner, 1990
Page Views: 757 total · 4/month
Shared By: Woody Stark on Oct 14, 2002
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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I've led this route a number of times. The first pitch is around seven and a cruise. The second pitch is problematic. Small wires get you going (5.9). The problem is the crack above. I've never been able to set satisfactory pro in the lower section of the crack. Once, after climbing it, I rapped down and spent about fifteen minutes trying to solve the problem; I failed. A fall when moving up the crack (5.8) will be a serious challenge for those lower wires. A fall here could result in never experiencing a fall again.


Standard rack, be sure to have small wires along.


The first part of the climb is sweet. Great pro and very interesting and sustained 7ish moves. after that, the pro looks like a total nightmare. not for this poooooosie. Feb 25, 2006
Only did the first pitch. Exited right to bolter anchor with slings. Decent climbing with good gear. Feb 19, 2013
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
if opting to do just the 5.7 first pitch, be aware that the two-bolt anchor atop Honky Justice no longer has any slings or rap link/rings, as of 4 Jan 2015. the two anchor bolts and their hangers are still there, just left of the top of CWC P1. just add slings and link for the rap. there's no bolted rap anchor to the immediate right, but possible to traverse up and far to climber's right to the bolted rap anchor of Six-Gun By My Side Jan 5, 2015
Matt Hagny  
I've led the upper pitch, and it's deserving of the R rating. Dec 6, 2017