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Routes in Corral Wall - Left Side

A Fistfull of Poodles T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Chuck Wagon Crack T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
City Slickers TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Corral Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Herd Instinct T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
High Plains Drifter T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Honky Justice T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Only Outlaws Have Guns T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Party in the Desert T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in the West T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Party till Ya' Puke T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ranch Hand T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Report all Gunshot Wounds T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Six-Gun by My Side T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Way Out West TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wide Ride T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Wild West S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Bart Groendycke and Todd Alston, February 1990
Page Views: 2,835 total · 14/month
Shared By: C Miller on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, Greg Opland, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

One of the better climbs at the Corral Wall, this varied route starts with polished edges (crux) into a hand crack that ends at a horizontal crack below a headwall. Clip a bolt and move delicately up to another bolt where lieback moves transition to fingery edges. Continue on past another horizontal (1.25" piece here) to a last bolt where some final slab moves lead to bolted anchors.

The good rock and engaging moves combine to make this a Corral Wall favorite. Three stars out of five.

Location

Between A Fistfull of Poodles and Party till Ya' Puke on an attractive brown face.

Protection

3 bolts (1/2"), pro to 2", bolted anchor/rap (1/2")

Photos

M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
If I recall correctly (it was '95 I think), the crux is right BEFORE the second bolt. I remember because as I was trying to regain my balance after high-stepping, I fell before clipping it and took a 20-footer! Balancy indeed! Nov 4, 2003
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
  5.10b
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
  5.10b
An intricate climb with lots of cool moves. My crux was after clipping the first bolt, I did a messy lunge move for the bottom of the third crack, smack my wrist. Nov 24, 2003
Blitzo
 
Blitzo  
 
Good route, probably my favorite at this crag. Oct 8, 2006
C Miller
CA
  5.10b
C Miller   CA  
  5.10b
All the bolts on this route have been replaced with 1/2" bolts as it was somewhat surprising how easily the original 5/16" buttonheads came out. Dec 27, 2006
Murf  
Repeated use has polished the start of this thing to epic proportions. Entry moves seem harder than 10b to me, if only for a couple of moves. Jan 22, 2007
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
IMO, the intial moves getting to the bottom of the crack was the crux. Getting to the third bolt seemed a bit of a mental crux. Excellent route! My first Josh .10b. Oct 1, 2007
Darshan Ahluwalia
Petaluma, CA
  5.10b
Darshan Ahluwalia   Petaluma, CA
  5.10b
more mental than anything Dec 20, 2007
JOHN HYDE
twentynine palms ca
JOHN HYDE   twentynine palms ca
great route, the crux is at the beginning of the route, it's very polished over time Aug 13, 2009
attila  
In my opinion, this route is at least 5.11 off the deck. Our party of 3, all solid 5.10 climbers, was shut down on the start of this route. Feb 24, 2010
The start is "worn out".

But, it's "The Monument" so the first ten feet don't count.

Rating stays the same. Feb 24, 2010
Nice to hear so many people are enjoying this route. Party in the Desert and Exfoliation Confrontation were put up on the same weekend in Feb. 1990. First routes on the Corral Wall.
Cheers! Jun 2, 2012
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
OK, I get it that ratings are "old school" at JTree but this is ridiculous. The first few moves are nowhere near 5.10b. Maybe not even 5.11b. Dec 9, 2012
MikeP ROWCC
  5.10b
MikeP ROWCC  
  5.10b
Didn't find the start as hard as some people on here. It was certainly sequential and started with a high step sidepull to get going. A couple of slick footholds gets you into a 5.8 crack with bomber gear. The second bolt was spicy! Almost barndoored off! A little runout beyond that but the climbing lets up. Feb 19, 2013
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
Start is very polished and IMHO a 10c move, maybe d, at least with my towering 5'9" frame. A longer reach could probably get a better hand and smear the feet.

No longer a 10b folks. Will try the sidepull next time and re-evaluate. Mar 11, 2013
Matt Hagny
  5.10b/c
Matt Hagny  
  5.10b/c
The start is becoming more like 10c due to the polish of the footholds. Up high, it's certainly not more than 10b. Dec 6, 2017

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