Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Roy Naasz, March 1973
Page Views: 4,251 total, 23/month
Shared By: M. Morley on Jul 1, 2002
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


155 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Not much to say about this one. A pretty fun - albeit short - route. Follow the quartz dike past 2 bolts (crux at second bolt). Belay in crack (hand size cams) and descend west down 4th class chimney.

Descend by heading right and down a slabby but improbable looking crack.

Protection

2 bolts (3/8") plus a couple of hand size cams for belay.
Sean Cooney
  5.10a
Sean Cooney  
  5.10a
Fun route, distinct crux. I'd say 10a, but then again I live in Vegas so this is like a Red Rocks 10d. ;-) Two stars+

I used a #3, #2 and #1 BD Camalot for an anchor. The seam could easily take a #3.5 and #4. May 9, 2017
Fernando Cal
Long Beach, CA
  5.9+
Fernando Cal   Long Beach, CA
  5.9+
Short and sweet. Probably a "hard" 5.9 move at the second bolt. Nothing to write home about. But coming down, yea I shouldve read MP as I went up left, and down the chimney in the back...probably harder than the climb (since I suck at chimney/OW stuff). If youre camping right next to it, do it. Feb 2, 2017
Tony Milici
Los Angeles
  5.9
Tony Milici   Los Angeles
  5.9
Wasn't 10a when I did it in 1986, probably 5.9, I think the guidebook had it as 5.8. Nov 21, 2016
Rob Selter
running springs Ca
 
Rob Selter   running springs Ca
 
didn't feel like a j-tree 5.10 but what do I know. Apr 7, 2012
Adam Stackhouse

  5.10b
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.10b
solo

youtube.com/watch?v=iAwR7LH… Jan 16, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
@FLputz: Pretty darn easy for "10". Stouter than a 5.8 though. I guess it's 5.10 if you don't committ and hang out for a while. Then again, many climbs are that way. Jan 8, 2012
Floridaputz
Oakland Park, Florida
Floridaputz   Oakland Park, Florida
I lead this before I had sticky rubber shoes in 81'. At the time I was told it was rated 5.8. I was stumped until I laid it back and boom, I had it. I've always heard since then that certain holds are gone so it's much harder now. It's seems that there is a split opinion on this. In the Pic I posted, compared to the others, there seems to be a good bit more patina on the dike back then. Oct 15, 2011
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
Goddamn! The comments are almost literally getting longer than the climb. Apr 12, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Super fun line. No way is the short, well protected crux 10b. Felt closer to 9. Mar 17, 2010
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Pinched Rib on Youtube - youtube.com/watch?v=8NjfmzZ… Jun 8, 2009
tallmark515
San Francisco
  5.10a
tallmark515   San Francisco
  5.10a
One or two 5.10- moves on the dike, but once you hit the sequence from the great stance then it feels like a cakewalk. There are definitely harder .10b's in the park. Apr 8, 2009
I did this right after SW Corner and Cryptic, and I thought it was easier than both of these. I thought there would be a crux, but I didn't even find a move harder than 5.8. The crux was making an anchor to belay the second. Fun route, but disappointing. Mar 9, 2009
Wolfgang Braun
Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.10b
Wolfgang Braun   Beavercreek, Oregon
  5.10b
This is a very fun route. i seem to remember scrambling off it on some slabs to the right. Then stepping down next to a tree in a crack. Oct 15, 2008
Adam Kimmerly
  5.9
Adam Kimmerly  
  5.9
I too think that even 5.10a might be a stretch on this one. The move is really easy if you set up the foot sequence right. I used little edges on the right side of the dike and liebacked right off a good sidepull to reach the better holds above. No harder than 5.9.

Though short, and really a one-move-wonder (like so many in JTree) this is still a very fun route up a cool feature. 2 stars out of 5 from me. Apr 30, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9+
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9+
Fun route with pseudo crux (if you can call it that) getting past the second bolt. Took only a moment to figure out the move. Casual climbing to the top. Bring some medium size cams for the anchor.

You can walk off by heading directly to your right towards Cyclops Rock. Down what looks to be a grim slab to a crack that heads back towards the front of the route. Looking right, head for the tree and down-climb there. I've done a lot of J-Tree walk-offs and this one is a lot better than most. Providing you know where you're headed.

As for the rating. I agree with Woody and go with a 9+ as the crux is maybe one move, the route is short and if you compare it to other routes in the area it doesn't support the 10b rating. IMO

~Susan Feb 25, 2007
Paul Rezucha
Alameda
  5.10a
Paul Rezucha   Alameda
  5.10a
A fun route to do at the end of the day right out of the Hidden Valley Campground. Easy climbing leads to the second bolt which is where the crux begins. It is not obvious what to do here but the foot and hand sequence is fun to figure out. If you get it right the first time it may not seem that hard. But if you try different sequences and have to down climb to the stance a few times, it could get a little tiring. I generously give this ** just for the interesting dike characteristic! Jun 8, 2006
Woody Stark  
5.9+
Now, now... Randy. Dec 30, 2005
Randy
  5.10a
Randy  
  5.10a
Woody... perhaps if you do it a few more times it will seem 5.6. Dec 29, 2005
Woody Stark  
5.9+
I did this route again today to confirm a suspicion about the rating. Last year I used a different combination of foot moves that I'd not tried before and was surprised at the result. The original rating--way back--was 5.7 then raised to 5.8 and is now 10a/b. Well, it was 5.7/5.8 today. Here's the secret: stay on the rib all the way. You start with the left foot on a reasonable sloper, then proceed on good holds right, left, right and grab the horn. While doing this, lean back a bit using the right edge of the dike all the way to the horn. Surprised the hell out of me. To me, it appears, the original party rated it correctly. I've done this twice now, and I'm certain I'm correct. Others should give it a try and see for themselves. Dec 28, 2005
Woody Stark  
5.9+
I led it in the early to mid seventies before the bolts were set. It was called Death Dike in those days so I couldn't have done the FA. That climb would have been with Dick Webster and /or Bill Briggs. Feb 16, 2005
Murf  
Holy Cow- Ray Vera has a guide coming out the same time as Randy! Feb 16, 2005
Woody: Are you saying you did the route before 1973? If so, had it been done (to your knowledge) before you led it? Certainly, if you did lead it without the bolts (pre:1973) it was the FA or at least FKFA.

Do you recall when exactly you did it and who else climbed it with you? Since my current publisher has sidelined the guide until November/December, it would be nice to correct any FA info. Feb 16, 2005
Woody Stark  
5.9+
I led this years ago before the bolts; and for the life of me, I can't figure out how I protected it. I did it again today, and decided I must have been nuts. Anyway, it's no more than nine plus as far as I'm concerned. It's an invigorating lead though. Good fun. Feb 15, 2005
Funny, I've seen a lot of photos of this thing and had many friends describe it as a must do. But a lot of you locals only give it 1 star. I thought it was a thought provoker up an interesting feature. Two stars. Nov 8, 2004
Randy
  5.10a
Randy  
  5.10a
Crux is too short and not hard enough to be 10b. Nov 7, 2004
Good story on this one. My friend, Chuck, went to lead it thinking it was 5.7. It was probably his third lead, and we were looking for something easy make him feel good about his leading ability. As Chuck gets to the crux, some guy walks by and starts talking to us about the grade change (5.9 at that time). Not wanting to freak out Chuck, we quiet the guy and watch Chuck battle the crux. He must have tried it about ten times before he committed and took a nice little whipper. Chuck was pissed until we told him the route was much harder Apr 6, 2004
C Miller
CA
  5.10a
C Miller   CA  
  5.10a
Aka - Snake Dike and Death Dike. Decent climbing up an obvious feature, but very short and not especially memorable. Feb 26, 2004
This route sometimes has a bolt anchor on top, sometimes not. I climbed it one day when the bolt anchor was in that little bowl on top under a small overhang, and the next day I soloed it and the bolts were already gone! What's the point of this story you ask? Just this: don't waste your time and money putting in a bolt anchor, some zealot will no doubt chop it within 24 hours. Mar 18, 2003
Flying T
5.10a
Flying T  
5.10a
It may have originally been 5.7, but more has to pull off before it's .10b. If not for the one crux move, it'd be 5.9. Short but really fun! Dec 16, 2002