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Chimney Rock - West Face Rock Climbing
Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face
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Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R |
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Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13 |
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Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Twisted Crystals T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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West Face Overhang T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| GPS: |
34.01661, -116.16159 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
| Page Views: | 20,186 total · 92/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Oct 16, 2007 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
The west face of Chimney Rock is the more popular side and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11b, and there's even an aid climb (A2+) for those into that sort of thing. Recommended routes to do include the circuitous West Face Overhang (5.7), the hand/fist crack of Damper (5.9) and the highly popular dike of Pinched Rib (5.10a).
Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.
Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock - West Face
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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