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Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Description

The west face of Chimney Rock is the more popular side and gets morning shade and afternoon sun. Ratings range from 5.7 to 5.11b, and there's even an aid climb (A2+) for those into that sort of thing. Recommended routes to do include the circuitous West Face Overhang (5.7), the hand/fist crack of Damper (5.9) and the highly popular dike of Pinched Rib (5.10a).

Safety Warning: The descent route down the "chimney" that splits the formation is filled with huge blocks and debris from a massive rockfall in the summer of 1994 when the route Loose Lips (5.11a) collapsed. While still possible to downclimb the chimney it's best avoid this route to avoid any multi-ton blocks shifting as you weight them.


Getting There

Approach from points within the Campground or park in the day use parking lot beneath Intersection Rock and walk east to the visible formation.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Chimney Rock - West Face

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Damper
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pinched Rib
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dyno in the Dark
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Damper 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Pinched Rib 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dyno in the Dark 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Chimney Rock - West Face »

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This is the face featured in the 1948 (?) Ansel Adams photo "Rocks and Moon".
Dec 31, 2014

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