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Routes in Chimney Rock - West Face

Ballet T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Break Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Damper T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dirty Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dyno in the Dark T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fear of Flying T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Howard's Horror, Direct T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pinched Rib T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face Overhang T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Charles Cole and Rusty Reno, January 1981
Page Views: 2,265 total · 11/month
Shared By: AJ on Dec 31, 2001
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Scramble up a chimney on the NE corner of the rock and belay (1-2") in an alcove just above the Space Station. Make an exposed reach into a clean crack. Jam and layback this, and finish in an easy slot. Rap bolts on top.


standard rack
tony grice  
You gotta do this one! Nov 15, 2006
MisterCattell Cattell
South Lake Tahoe, Ca
MisterCattell Cattell   South Lake Tahoe, Ca
Doing it in the middle of the night adds some air to the route. Go time begins immediately after pulling out of the alcove above the Space Station. Stellar, stellar route, and you feel like a rock star. Apr 4, 2016
Eli .
Eli .   GMC3500
I couldn't recommend this pitch enough.

Pretty minimal on the kitty litter, though there is some. This thing looks from the ground to be a gnarly finger crack, but it climbs as a very fun layback for almost the whole route. There is a short relatively easy offwidth section up top, if you're not confident in those skills I'd recommend bringing a #5 or #6. otherwise just take a single rack from .3-#3, maybe double up on .4 sized cams. Jan 14, 2017

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